Category Archive: how to knit well

How to Knit Well – Finishing the Ends of Yarn: Reversible Shetland-Wool Gloves Tutorial 2


The updated version of my Reversible Shetland-Wool Gloves now includes a popular new pair of reversible mittens. Unlike the fingerless gloves, which require the Kitchner grafting method of joining the top, no grafting is needed to knit these mittens.

However, this means that after you’ve made the second mitten, you won’t be able to turn the piece inside-out. So this Tutorial will show you how to finish the free-ends of yarn in my double-layered reversible mittens!

Last week I have blogged about how to embroider a flower motif on the knitted fabric (LINK) for this pattern.


It’s important that you have all the left-over free-ends of yarns, on the right side of the piece (and this includes when you are changing the colours and for making the thumb). Note that you can’t see any of the red (the main colour) free-ends of yarns for the striped area. This is because the yarn is carried forward for the next set of stripes, to avoid having to deal with too many strands of yarn at the end.


I find it harder to carry the yarns without cutting them for the rest of the colours, because the rows worked are not enough to keep the knitted fabric neat and tidy. Therefore, I prefer to cut the yarns and finish them off at the end.

1)    First, you tie the knots. Make sure you pair with the same coloured yarn. The first and the last stitch of the row may be loose because they are not joined, so pull these yarns (but maintain the tension) to make sure the edges are neat.


2)    Using yarn needles, thread through between the two layers of the mittens.


3)    Then cut the yarn close to the fabric (careful not to cut the preciously knitted fabric!!)


4)    Stretch the mitten lengthways, to hide the end-yarns between the layers.


Then you are ready to put the other side of the mitten inside to make a pair of the warmest, cosiest double-layered mittens ever! ☺

How to Knit Well – Knitting Embroidery: Reversible Shetland-Wool Gloves Tutorial 1


These Reversible Gloves are one of the first Cotton & Cloud original designs. It has been my intention to update it for a while now and since I really want to have the majority of work done before the baby is born; I’ve finally got around doing it!

The updated pattern now includes a mitten version of the pattern using the very best Shetland Wool from Jamieson’s of Shetland DK. There is absolutely nothing else that can keep your hands as warm in the cold weather!

I have changed the stripe slightly from the original version, so that it is easier for the knitters and to avoid having to use so many colours for just a little amount.

When I write my patterns, I try to put as much information as possible but it’s not always possible owing to the limitation of pages I can use for each loose-leaf pattern (multiple of 4 pages).

The new Reversible Gloves pattern includes images to help you with some techniques used to make the gloves and the pattern was already laid out over 8 pages, so I thought I would write an additional blog post about it to help you succeed with your knitting today!


The Reversible Gloves are made with two layers of gloves. For this pattern you make the plain glove first and the flower embroidery is done before you start making the interior piece. Unlike normal embroidery on fabric, stitching onto a knitted fabric can be a little tricky because the stitches are bigger and elastic.


The trick is to keep the tension of the knitted fabric as flat as possible by not embroidering it too tightly. You can take a piece of cardboard and place it underneath, to help keep the fabric as flat as possible. In the case of gloves, placing the cardboard inside the gloves will also prevent sewing through the other side of the fabric.

So here is how to embroider a flower onto the gloves!
1.    Start from the inside of the flower with yellow for the centre and the first colour.


2.    Mark the positions of 6 petals using the second colour yarn. Leave the second colour for now.


3.    Outline the shape of the petal using the third colour yarn first, then outline once more with shorter lines outside of the petals, so that each line drawn by the third colour is prominent.


4.    Go back to the second colour and fill in the petals.


5.    Identify a position straight below the flower and add a stem. For a nice effect, curve the stem closer to the flower.



That’s it! The next tutorial will be how to finish off the free ends of yarn for the Reversible Mittens.
Enjoy the cosy gloves ☺

How to Knit Well – Calculating Stitch Increase for Top-Down Raglan Shaping – Knitter’s Simultaneous Equation

Have you ever wondered how to calculate stitch increases for top-down raglan shaping? Today, I’m going to explain the method I use, which is based on a simple simultaneous equation and quite easy to do when you know how!


Temari (below) is a good example of top-down seamless raglan top. This garment also uses knitted turned ridge (link for the video tutorial here).


First, you need the following:

Tension 14 sts to 20 rows to 10 cm
Armhole height (cm)* 24 cm
Starting sleeve stitch number 3 sts
Top sleeve stitch number (without the underarm gusset) 45 sts

*Vertical measurement

And here’s how to do it:
1.    Convert the armhole height from centimetres to no. of rows
2.    Calculate how many stitches to increase for each sleeve – per raglan seam
3.    Calculate the row interval of raglan increase
4.    Put all of these numbers into a simultaneous equation

1.   Convert armhole height from cm to rows

From the tension, we know that 20 rows measures 10 cm.
This means 2 rows measure 1 cm (20 rows ÷ 10 cm = 2 rows per cm).
Therefore, the number of rows in 24 cm would be:

Height in cm 24 cm x Rows per cm 2 = Height in rows 48

24 x 2 = 48 rows

2. Calculate how many stitches to increase for each sleeve per raglan seam

If we you subtract the starting sleeve stitch number from the top sleeve stitch number, (without the underarm gusset stitches), this will give you the total stitch increases for the sleeve.

(Top sleeve st without underarm gusset) minus (Starting sleeve st) = total number of increase for the sleeve

45 sts – 3 sts = 42 sts increase for the sleeve

And as there are two raglan seams for each sleeve, you need to divide the number by 2 to get the number of stitches to increase per raglan seam (fig below).


3. Calculate row interval of raglan increase

Now, you know that you need an increase of 21 sts per raglan seam over 48 rows.
This means the row intervals for the increase can be calculated as follows:

(Raglan height in rows) ÷ (St increase per raglan seam) = Theoretical row interval

48 ÷ 21 = 2.29

The number has to be a whole, even number and ideally the increase is worked on RS row (i.e. every other row or every 4 rows).

2.29 means that an increase of 2.29 rows over 48 rows will make a total increase of 21 stitches.

But in reality, this means that you increase 21 sts every 2 rows X number of times and every 4 rows Y number of times. And this is what creates a simultaneous equation.

Note: If your theoretical row interval number is less than 2, (i.e. anything up to 1.999) you would have to increase every row X times and every other row Y times etc. Whilst also making sure that in this case, X is an even number.

4.  Put all numbers into a simultaneous equation

So, now you know that with an increase every 2 rows of X-times and every 4 rows, of Y-times you’ll reach the total raglan armhole height.

•    You know the total number of sts to increase per raglan seam is 21.
•    This means X + Y = 21.

Putting the above numbers into a basic simultaneous equation looks like this:

Equation a):  (2X) + (4Y) = 48
Equation b):   X + Y = 21

•    Then if you multiply Equation b) by 2, you’ll get (2X) + (2Y) = 42
•    Which you then subtract from Equation a) like this:

2X + 4Y = 48
2X + 2Y = 42
0 + 2Y =  6

•    This shows that 2 x Y= 6
•    Or it can be written as:  6 ÷ 2 = Y
•    And 6 divided by 2 is 3, so Y = 3

Then, you can just replace Y with 3 in Equation b), to find the value of X:

•    Equation b) is now: X + 3 = 21
•    So 21 – 3 = 18
•    Therefore X = 18

Understanding the numbers

Now you have X = 18 and Y = 3.

And this means that to increase from a starting sleeve stitch number of 3, to the top sleeve stitch number of 45, at underarm gusset over 48 rows, you’ll need to increase 18 times every 2 rows and 3 times every 4 rows. 3 times.
You can also use this method to calculate the raglan increase for the body, as the increase may not be the same as for the sleeves.

This is a basic method of working out the raglan increase, which I hope will help you to work out your own raglan designs!

How to Knit Well – 6 Top Tips for Knitting Beginners

I have been thinking about the time when I first started knitting. Knitting is a very useful and satisfying pastime, as you can make attractive and fashionable clothing and other items with your own hands. And even in the computer age, knitting is still extremely popular as a relaxing hobby enjoyed by millions of people all over the world!


Knitting can be a little tricky to learn at first, as you need a creative eye and a patient, practiced touch. In addition, there are a number of basic rules of knitting to learn.

So whether you are simply looking for a new hobby or want to enjoy the many practical and economic benefits of this ancient craft, my 6 Top Tips for Knitting Beginners will help you avoid the typical ‘beginner’s mistakes’!

1. Start With Simple Concepts
For knitting beginners, it can be tempting to start ambitious or overly complicated projects. However, while you can quickly work your way up to a high level of proficiency, as with all new skills, ‘you have to walk before you can run’, and you will have more success if you start with simple patterns.


When I started knitting, my dream project was this beautiful, Constellation Sweater! And so I practised my basic knitting skills carefully, knowing that I had a special project in mind for the future! You can find lots of lovely, easy-to-follow, free patterns on the Rowan or Drops websites which are perfect for beginners.

2. Follow Instructions Carefully
Reading and understanding a knitting pattern is vital to your success, particularly when you are just starting out. Read the instructions several times and make a careful note of the recommended yarns. This will help you avoid mistakes and ensure the finished item is everything you wanted it to be!

When you are more experienced, you will be able to make yarn substitutions, but this should only be done when you have a full understanding of how different tensions and drape affect the finished item.


3. Prepare Yourself Properly
There are a just a couple of personal preparations to make if you plan to knit regularly. For some (like me), this may mean getting a fresh supply of Acuvue contact lenses, to ensure you will be able to see in clear detail while knitting.


Caring for your eye-health is essential for everything you do, so I always make sure my eyes are not tired or dry before I settle down to enjoy a knitting session. I also keep my hands nice and smooth by using hand cream frequently, to prevent yarn catching on dry skin. This is especially important with fine, silk yarns. I love making my own hand by mixing rose and bergamot essential oils to a base cream that I get from Neal’s Yard.

4. Use The Right Yarn
It is essential to follow the instructions on which type of yarn or colour of yarn to use.
Moreover, if you should need extra yarn, you must ensure you buy the same type, tension and ‘dye batch number’ as you used initially. If you don’t, you may find that the new yarn is a slightly different colour or knitting tension to the rest of the item! So remember to check the yarn tension and colour dye batch number.

5. Knit The Gauge
Some people see the knitting gauge as an unnecessary, time-consuming extra task. They are mistaken! Knitting patterns do not allow for knitting gauge errors in the finished item, so doing the gauge is vital!


The knitting gauge practice run allows you to make mistakes and then adjust, so you can be more accurate when you actually start your project. And who knows? The gauge itself may turn out beautifully and be all ready to make into a lovely, useful blanket!

6. Organise Your Needles
This may seem unimportant to a beginner, but believe me, it isn’t! A while ago, I wrote a post about knitting needle storage ideas. And I keep all of my circular needles in a B6 Zipper Pouch from Muji. This allows you to swap needles quickly to obtain the correct tension or to work ribbing etc.

Although the winter is almost over, (we hope), this is a great time to start learning to knit, as by next winter you’ll be able to make wonderfully warm and attractive, knitted items for all your loved ones!

How to Knit Well – How to Assemble a Simple Quartz Clock Movement

My Knitted Clock Design has recently been published in Simply Knitting issue 101 – which is very exciting!

Until I started creating the design, I had no idea how to assemble a clock movement. However, my husband turned out to be one of the tiny handful of children who had actually made a clock in school! And this unusual skill came in very handy for my knitted clock design!

Anyway, I thought it would be a good idea to include a general tutorial on how to assemble a quartz clock movement to go with this issue. The same clock is used for the pattern in Simply Knitting – issue 101 but it can be used for any clocks.

So – let’s all make a fabulous knitted clock and surprise everyone with our knitting ingenuity!


Clock Movement and parts can be obtained from

1.    Attach the silver hook at the back of the movement (fig. 1).

2.    Place the rubber disc onto the front of the movement (fig. 2).

3.    Insert the golden metal centre into the front of the clock, with the screw part facing down (fig. 3).

4.    From the back of the clock, screw the movement into the golden metal centre, (fig. 4).

5.    Then, take the hour needle first and gently place it onto the clock face, making sure to position it with the bits at the bottom (fig. 5).

Note:  Don’t press the hour needle down too far on the spindle, as you need to leave a small gap between the needle and the clock face (fig. 6).

6.    There are two different screws in the clock kit.  The nut (left) (fig. 7) is for use with the minute hand. Place the minute hand onto the spindle, on top of the hour hand and screw fix the nut (fig. 8)

Note:  If you do happen to have a ‘seconds’ hand, you will need to use the circular screw (right).
7.    Finally, adjust the time, place an AA battery in the recess at the back and hang your amazing handiwork very proudly on the wall! ☺

If you prefer to watch a video tutorial, here’s one I made earlier!


How to Knit Well – How to Place Patterns Over Short-Row Fabric

First of all, I want to say a big, “Thank You!” to Kay at Mason-Dixon Knitting! Last Sunday, when Jen told me that my Sideway & Merging Ripple shawls were mentioned in Mason-Dixon Knitting, I was totally in shock! Thank you so much, Kay, for your amazing post!

Today, I’m going to share a method for producing a fabulous all-over pattern on a short-row shaped fabric!

Last year, I wrote a short tutorial on short-row in Knitscene Winter 2012 issue and since then, I’ve published quite a few new designs involving short-row technique. So I thought I would write a follow-up article on applied knowledge in Wrap & Turn short-row.

All-over patterning

So why do you need this applied knowledge, when short-row is easily worked on either garter stitch or stocking stitch? Well, wouldn’t it be amazing if this shaped fabric had patterns all over and that you can knit it! After reading this post you’ll be able to do just that! 🙂


(above) Copyright Interweave Press


Examples of patterned short-row fabric are River Slipper (first image above), Osney Shrug (2nd image above), and Baby Cable Yoke Jacket etc. And if you look closely, you’ll see there are two categories of such pattern placements:

(1) A single pattern all over the short-row fabric (fig. 1. A) – e.g. Osney Shrug.
(2) Several different patterns, such as cables, placed next to each other (fig. 1. B) – e.g River Slippers & Baby Cable Yoke Jacket.


To achieve either of the above patterns, you need to satisfy both the row and stitch rules. But before I talk about these two rules, I need to briefly mention one thing.

In short-row, each time you wrap & turn, the fabric on one side grows 2 rows more than the other. For example, consider the following set (also see fig. 2):

cumulative rows worked
1st SR segment Row 1 (RS): Patt to last 6 sts, w&t.
Row 2 (WS): Patt to end.
2nd SR segment Row 3: Patt to 6 sts before the wrap, w&t.
Row 4: Patt to end.
3rd SR segment Row 5: Patt to 6 sts before the wrap, w&t.
Row 6: Patt to end.
Hiding the Wrap(4th SR segment) Row 7: With the RS facing, Patt to end lifting the wrap at the base – then SSK the wrap and its stitch together.
Row 8: Patt to end.


This means that for each set of the short-row, the fabric grows by 2, 4, 6 and 8 rows from left to right. The fact that for each wrap & turn, the one side of the fabric grows by 2 rows seem obvious but is very important to remember this when you place a pattern.

Row Rule

To achieve (1), the easiest option is to choose a pattern with a row repeat of 2 rows. Larger row repeat is possible, but you would need to repeat several short-row sets to reset the pattern to the beginning.

This is because you work the same repeat of the pattern, no matter which segment or set of short-row you are working. Although it is possible to use a pattern with the row repeat of more than 2 rows, it becomes more complex, because the pattern placement will become staggered and you would need to repeat several sets of short-rows to “reset” and return to where you started. I usually avoid it, because working out hundreds of stitches for a garment is complex enough! But just for the purpose of this post, let’s use a pattern with a row repeat of 4 rows.

4-Row repeat

At the end of the first set of short-row, the 1st and 3rd (i.e. odd number) short-row segments will have an incomplete pattern. This is because for each set, the fabric grew by 2 and 6 rows respectively and the row repeat of the chosen pattern is 4. However, the 2nd & 4th (even number) short-row segments will have a pattern completed because the fabric grew by 4 and 8 rows respectively. This means you would need to repeat the whole set once more, to get back to where you have started.

6-Row repeat

Similarly, if you used a pattern that is worked over 6 rows, you would need to repeat the set 3 times and work the different rows of the pattern for each short-row segment to get back to where you started etc. Then, you can apply the above knowledge and place several patterns next to each other over a short-row fabric to achieve (2).

To achieve (2), choose a pattern with a row repeat of the same row number or its divisible fraction to each segment.

The easiest way to do this is to use a pattern that has the row repeat of 2, 4, 6, 8 etc. on each segment of short row. In other words, use a pattern that has the same number, or a divisible fraction of rows, for the segment on which you want to place the pattern.

For example, in the above pattern (also see fig. 2) (i.e. there are 3 wrap & turns in one set and the total number of rows worked per set is 8 rows), you can select patterns that have row repeats of 2, 4, 6 and 8 rows (or 2, 4, 3, 4, or 2, 4, 6, 4, or 2, 2, 2, 2 or 2, 2, 3, 4 etc etc..).

Stitch Rule

Once you know which row repeat of the pattern you can use, you then have to consider how the actual pattern is constructed across the stitch. This is because you have to take the wrapped stitch into account.

The wrapped stitch is not knitted until you want to hide them at the end of the short-row set, where this wrap is lifted from below and worked with the stitch (rows 7 and 8 in the above example). This means that you would need to choose a pattern that has at least one stitch that is unchanged (i.e. a stitch that does not move across e.g. increased, knitted together, or cabled).

Therefore, the best place to put the wrapped stitch for a cabled short-row is the purl stitch between the cables. If you work the Osney Shrug, you will notice that the wrap is placed on a stitch that is not involved in the patter (i.e. not cabled, increased or decreased etc).

No Right or Wrong

The beauty of knitting is that whatever you do, there is no absolute right or wrong! There will always be exceptions and complications to the above rules that I have introduced. Right at this moment, I am designing a horizontal cable yoke garment and I have had to tweak the rule to fit with a different sized garment. One thing to recommend is to make a swatch of the sample when you create a patterned short-row fabric to double check.

So, I hope this article will give you some super ideas for your new designs and create lots of wonderful, creative knitting!

Mikan Snood & Hat – Be Warm, Be Bright, Be Happy!

Today, I would like to talk about the inspiration behind my exciting new Winter 2012/2013 Collection!

Mikan Knitting Pattern

This collection is the very first one for Cotton & Cloud and I felt it was important to have a theme that is personal to me and reflects my life experiences.  Therefore, my very first Winter Collection is a fusion of my fond memories of being a child in Japan and then my new life in the U.K.

So here it is and I hope you will enjoy making and wearing these designs, as much as I enjoyed creating them!

Mikan Snood & Hat

The attractive Mikan Snood & Hat are perfect winter-warmers and will definitely cheer you up during the cold, dark winter days.  I have designed the Mikan Snood & Hat to be decorated with cute, chunky clumps of cable-like stitches making a chain of oval blobs, like tiny tangerines!


The inspiration for this design comes from my childhood in Japan and the delicious little tangerines I loved to eat in the wintertime.

Mikan is the Japanese word for tangerine or satsuma and these brightly-coloured fruits were my very favourite winter fruit in Japan. I used to eat them sitting at the Kotatsu table and sometimes while I knitted.

Citrus obsession!

When I later came to the U.K. to study, the fruits I could eat at boarding school were more often bananas and green apples. My beloved tangerines were replaced by clementines which, to me, are completely different and I missed eating the sweet and juicy tangerines at home with my family.

Now that I come to think about it, this must be one of the reasons why, as an adult, I am obsessed with eating citrus fruit – along with my obsession for pain au chocolat!

Video tutorial

However, let me get back to the Mikan Snood and Hood instructions!

  • The clusters of cable-like stitches are made by knitting 5 stitches together and then increase back to 5.
  • In over to prevent fabric being pulled too much (due to k5 tog), you should make yarn overs on the previous row that are subsequently dropped.

Here’s a quick tutorial I made for you.

Chunky & Cosy

The snood is reversible and I used Manos Wool Clasica, which is one of my favourite yarns. Manos Wool Clasica has varying yarn thickness, which makes the finished article more interesting and almost rustic.

Straight yarn would also work well, for example, something like Artesano Aran would turn out beautifully.

So what was your favourite winter food as a child – it’s so nice sometimes to remember those days with your family isn’t it?

Just found this amazing site! Create Your Own Icelandic Lopi Patterns.

If you love custom knitwear like me, you will love this site. Basically it is an online knitting pattern creator for Icelandic Lopi sweaters. I was so amazed and impressed about this site so I contacted the owner of the site if it was OK for me to blog about it, and I got a reply!

Lopi Sweater Design Site

So the story goes like this, he is a software developer and a husband of a keen knitter. Originally he developed this site for her (how amazing!) so that sh can design her own Lopi sweater. It is now a free site for everyone. He says that he is constantly improving the functionality, so if you see something that you want or would like to be improved on, please let him know! He has a great blog and also a ravelry group page.

Gosh I have so many I want to knit now! Yesterday I was bragging on about how much I wanted to knit a pair of socks on CC facebook page. Now I want to knit Lopi sweater too. No time for the wicked in deed.

Now, a quick news for everyone in the UK. There will be a Stitch and Craft Show from today to Sunday at Olympia. On Sunday only, I will be there as an expert knitter working with The Knitter magazine. I will be around helping out with patterns or any knitting inquiries among other expert knitters!! So if you are there on Sunday come and say hi! I will also take lots of pictures and blog about it later 🙂

Happy knitting!

How to Knit Single or Odd Numbered Row Stripe Pattern Without Cutting Yarns.

When you knit a single / odd numbered-row stripe pattern in flat knitting, you keep having to cut the yarn and re-join the new colours. I don’t really like having lots of strands to tidy at the end.

This meant that I never really designed any flat-knitting-style pattern with single / odd numbered stripes. BUT things are now changing!!!!!

I have discovered the way to knit a single / odd numbered stripe patterns without cutting the yarn and rejoining the new colours using circular needles and today I will show you how this can be done.

Following is the basic rule to this technique:

  • 1) It only applies to flat knitting (and not circular).
  • 2) You need a circular needle to make this happen.
  • 3) When the colour of the yarn you want to knit on the next row is NOT at the beginning of the next row (i.e. still at the beginning of the previous row), pull the needle to the left all the way to the other end of the circular needle. This means that you may knit the Right or  Wrong side row more than once – so keep an eye on the row count.

Here is how to do it.

Step 1: Knit 1 row with colour 1 (in this case, pink) (pic below).

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

Step 2: The next colour I want to knit is green. But this green yarn is not at the beginning of the next row (i.e. still at the beginning of the previous row (on the right). So I pull the needle to the left. Hold the fabric and move all the way to the other end of the needle facing the right (pic below).

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

Pic below shows where all the stitches have moved to the other end of the needle, which is facing the right.

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

You can now knit with the green yarn without having to cut and re-joining (pic below).

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn and rejoining

Notice that when you work the green yarn, you have knitted the RS row again (pic below).

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

Step 3: The next row I want to knit is pink. This time, the pink yarn is already at the beginning of the next row, which means that you can work the next row straight away without pulling the needle (pic below).

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

Step 4: After working one row (or an odd number of the row) with pink, I now want to knit the next colour with green. But the green yarn is not at the beginning of the next row (i.e.still at the beginning of the previous row). So I pull the needle all the way to the other end.

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

Work the WS row again but without cutting the yarn (pic below).


That’s it.

Using this technique, you can do various combinations of rows in stripe patterns as well as colours. I experimented with single garter pattern using this technique and I really like how the pattern looks – it’s retro!

single stripe garter stitch

Below is the video tutorial on this technique 🙂 Happy stripe knitting!

Front Cover of The Knitter Issue 39!!

Christmas has come early in the world of Cotton & Cloud because my new knitting pattern has made it on the front cover of The Knitter magazine issue 39!!!!!

The Knitter Issue 39

Red Willow, combination of traditional Fair Isle on a modern garment.

The knitting pattern is called Red Willow, and is a combination of traditional Fair Isle on a modern shape of a garment. The yarn used for this is Blue Sky Alpaca sport weight. ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS YARN. If you haven’t knitted with this yarn, it is your duty to do so! (LOL)!!! You will fall in love with it just by looking at them.

What is special about this issue is that talented Emma King has written an amazing masterclass article about re-colouring Fair Isle designs based on this pattern. Really amazing and helpful article and you can see many different colour combinations of the Fair Motif.

There are also many great patterns including gorgeous tops, socks to wear with your boots, and a very fascinating article about Guernsey jumper. I love this issue so much. As usual, the magazine is so superbly compiled. I don’t know how hard The Knitter team work! I think this is the one to keep (you can subscribe the mag from here).

original knitting patterns by Kyoko Nakayoshi

You don't have to do much styling with this top as the piece will catch everyone's eyes.

Like how the model is wearing, you can combine this top with a long T-shirt. Or you could mix it with a nice cotton shirt with jeans. There are so many options because many colours are used.

original fair isle knitting patterns

Show off your knitting skills to people! Make a statement to the world! 😉

For those who are confident knitters, do you do Fair Isle with one or two hands? I do it with two hands.

For those who is not so confident with Fair Isle, have no fear – it’s so fun! I usually knit Continental method and many years back, I just so wanted to knit a serious Fair Isle so I practiced English knitting method really hard. I am so glad that I did it.

Just for fun, I have made video tutorials to help knitting Fair Isle. Although, I think practice makes perfect but hopefully these video tutorials would give you some tips and help for you to enjoy your knit-life even more 😉

How to knit Continental method

How to knit English method

Fair Isle knitting using two hands

Tips for a tidy Fair Isle in purl (but also applies to knit row)