Archive for the ‘Tutorials’ Category

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How to Knit Single or Odd Numbered Row Stripe Pattern Without Cutting Yarns.

Tuesday, January 31st, 2012

When you knit a single / odd numbered-row stripe pattern in flat knitting, you keep having to cut the yarn and re-join the new colours. I don’t really like having lots of strands to tidy at the end.

This meant that I never really designed any flat-knitting-style pattern with single / odd numbered stripes. BUT things are now changing!!!!!

I have discovered the way to knit a single / odd numbered stripe patterns without cutting the yarn and rejoining the new colours using circular needles and today I will show you how this can be done.

Following is the basic rule to this technique:

  • 1) It only applies to flat knitting (and not circular).
  • 2) You need a circular needle to make this happen.
  • 3) When the colour of the yarn you want to knit on the next row is NOT at the beginning of the next row (i.e. still at the beginning of the previous row), pull the needle to the left all the way to the other end of the circular needle. This means that you may knit the Right or  Wrong side row more than once – so keep an eye on the row count.

Here is how to do it.

Step 1: Knit 1 row with colour 1 (in this case, pink) (pic below).

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

Step 2: The next colour I want to knit is green. But this green yarn is not at the beginning of the next row (i.e. still at the beginning of the previous row (on the right). So I pull the needle to the left. Hold the fabric and move all the way to the other end of the needle facing the right (pic below).

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

Pic below shows where all the stitches have moved to the other end of the needle, which is facing the right.

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

You can now knit with the green yarn without having to cut and re-joining (pic below).

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn and rejoining

Notice that when you work the green yarn, you have knitted the RS row again (pic below).

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

Step 3: The next row I want to knit is pink. This time, the pink yarn is already at the beginning of the next row, which means that you can work the next row straight away without pulling the needle (pic below).

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

Step 4: After working one row (or an odd number of the row) with pink, I now want to knit the next colour with green. But the green yarn is not at the beginning of the next row (i.e.still at the beginning of the previous row). So I pull the needle all the way to the other end.

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

Work the WS row again but without cutting the yarn (pic below).

knit_single_stripe_9

That’s it.

Using this technique, you can do various combinations of rows in stripe patterns as well as colours. I experimented with single garter pattern using this technique and I really like how the pattern looks – it’s retro!

single stripe garter stitch

Below is the video tutorial on this technique :) Happy stripe knitting!

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Posted in Tutorials | 10 Comments »

Front Cover of The Knitter Issue 39!!

Wednesday, November 30th, 2011

Christmas has come early in the world of Cotton & Cloud because my new knitting pattern has made it on the front cover of The Knitter magazine issue 39!!!!!

The Knitter Issue 39

Red Willow, combination of traditional Fair Isle on a modern garment.

The knitting pattern is called Red Willow, and is a combination of traditional Fair Isle on a modern shape of a garment. The yarn used for this is Blue Sky Alpaca sport weight. ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS YARN. If you haven’t knitted with this yarn, it is your duty to do so! (LOL)!!! You will fall in love with it just by looking at them.

What is special about this issue is that talented Emma King has written an amazing masterclass article about re-colouring Fair Isle designs based on this pattern. Really amazing and helpful article and you can see many different colour combinations of the Fair Motif.

There are also many great patterns including gorgeous tops, socks to wear with your boots, and a very fascinating article about Guernsey jumper. I love this issue so much. As usual, the magazine is so superbly compiled. I don’t know how hard The Knitter team work! I think this is the one to keep (you can subscribe the mag from here).

original knitting patterns by Kyoko Nakayoshi

You don't have to do much styling with this top as the piece will catch everyone's eyes.

Like how the model is wearing, you can combine this top with a long T-shirt. Or you could mix it with a nice cotton shirt with jeans. There are so many options because many colours are used.

original fair isle knitting patterns

Show off your knitting skills to people! Make a statement to the world! ;)

For those who are confident knitters, do you do Fair Isle with one or two hands? I do it with two hands.

For those who is not so confident with Fair Isle, have no fear – it’s so fun! I usually knit Continental method and many years back, I just so wanted to knit a serious Fair Isle so I practiced English knitting method really hard. I am so glad that I did it.

Just for fun, I have made video tutorials to help knitting Fair Isle. Although, I think practice makes perfect but hopefully these video tutorials would give you some tips and help for you to enjoy your knit-life even more ;)

How to knit Continental method

How to knit English method

Fair Isle knitting using two hands

Tips for a tidy Fair Isle in purl (but also applies to knit row)

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Posted in In Print, Tutorials | 12 Comments »

New Cotton & Cloud Cable Aran Cardigan Pattern on Simply Knitting Magazine Issue 87

Tuesday, November 15th, 2011

This year is just flying by. I don’t think it is just me feeling this way. It’s time of the year as much as we are increasingly becoming busier than ever. The weather is certainly getting colder in London but this does not stop me from hibernating!

Today I would like to talk about the December issue of Simply Knitting magazine because there is a new Cotton & Cloud pattern in it!

Simply Knitting December Issue 87

Simply Knitting December Issue 87

But before I talk about the pattern, I would like to mention two lovely patterns that are also in the magazine. The first is the pretty shawl from Melanie from Lilysunshine. The second is the Sweet & Simple mittens by Jen from Jen Arnall-Culliford Knitwear (you can see wonderful knit creations in her blog). I love how cozy the gloves look. It would be perfect if you have odd balls of variegated yarn.

Cable Aran Cardigan Knitting Pattern Front

Front view.

The new knitting pattern featured in the magazine is a cable aran cardigan knitted with British superwash yarn Jarol. When I was a beginner knitter, my aim was to knit a cable aran sweater. So when I was asked by Debbie, the Editor of Simply Knitting magazine to pattern a cable cardigan using the aran yarn, this was it, a “must-do” project!

cable aran cardigan knitting pattern back

Back view.

The garment is as nice in real-life as in the picture worn by the model. If I have time, I would really want to knit the same garment with a different shade of Jarol.

cable aran cardigan knitting pattern in Simply Knitting Magazine issue 87

Pocket and button band view.

The garment also features nice leather buttons. I used vintage buttons I had in my button-stash.

Talking about buttons, I recently devised a new method of knitting a tidy and strong buttonholes. It is one over one-row using crochet cast on method and is very useful. So I thought why not create a vide tutorial about it (I think I am getting used to hearing my own recorded voice now, LOL!).


Happi knitting everyone!

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Posted in In Print, Tutorials | 10 Comments »

Wrap and Turn, Short-row Knitting Tutorial

Thursday, November 3rd, 2011

Do you have a favourite knitting technique that you use all the time? Mine is “wrap and turn”. The reason why I am blogging about wrap & turn is because many of my patterns include this technique. So, I thought it is about time for me to do a detailed tutorial about it.

Recently one of my new patterns called Hollyberry Bonnet & Cape have been published in Interweave Holiday Gift 2011 (super hurray!). This pattern is a typical example of wrap & turn technique.The horizontally shaping of the cape and the bonnet brim shaping are all worked using short-row technique.

I was thrilled to read in the magazine that the design is expertly shaped and designed. Seeing such a wonderfully edited and stylised publication of my knitting pattern, it made me think even more that I want to make sure that my patterns are logically constructed, knitable and achievable with 100% satisfaction!

Hollyberry Bonnet and Cape

So today I would like to write a detailed knitting tutorial about “wrap & turn”.

WRAP & TURN is one of the methods in short-row knitting. Short-row knitting allows you to change the direction of knitting, creating darts, mitred corners, vertical gathers and curves. It’s used for toe-up sock (the toe bits), horizontal yoke garments and lots of other 3D knitting!

In a nutshell: wrap & turn is worked as taking the yarn to opposite side of work (so if you are on the knit stitch, bring yarn front, if you are on the purl stitch, bring yarn back), slip next stitch from left to right needle, return yarn to working side, then slip st back from right to left needle. This will wrap the base of the stitch. The remaining stitches are unworked. Turn and continue working.

If you want to master all knitting techniques including various short-row knitting methods, I highly recommend Knitter’s Handbook by M. Stanley.

————–

The process of short-row knitting (i.e. wrap & turn) is divided by two stages: 1) The first stage is to do the actual wrap & turn, 2) The second stage is to “erase” the wraps by working together the wrap with the stitch.

————–

STAGE 1: WRAP AND TURN

RIGHT-SIDE of the work

When you reach to the stitch where you need to wrap & turn;

You will see that the stitch has a wrap at the base.

WRONG-SIDE of the work

When you reach to the stitch where you need to wrap & turn;

You will see that the stitch has a wrap at the base.

————–

STAGE 2: ERASING THE WRAPS

This is done so as to prevent a hole being made between the rows. You can ignore this process if you like the wraps to remain for a decorative purpose.

The most important thing is to pick up the wrap from the right-side of the work. This way, all the wraps would be tucked behind the wrong side of the work after the stitches are knitted together.

You can pick up the wrap either with right or the left needles. I will show you how you can do both methods.

RIGHT-SIDE of the work

METHOD 1) Using right needle (very similar to slip, slip, knit (ssk)):

METHOD 2) Using the left needle:

WRONG-SIDE of the work

METHOD 1) Using right needle:

METHOD 2) Using the left needle:

Here is the video tutorial.

Happy knitting!

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Posted in Tutorials | 9 Comments »

Same but Different: Knitting Tutorial – The Analysis of K3tog

Tuesday, January 18th, 2011

It’s been just over a week since we moved here and things are going well (slowly but surely). I have been very busy knitting up samples for the patterns for some of the magazine work and I noticed that I have been using a particular k3tog technique quite often. It’s essentially k3tog but not quite the same so I decided to talk about it.

1. The Original k3tog (left stitch on top)

There is no tricks on this. Just “knit 3 stitches together”. But if you look closely enough to this stitch, you will see that the 3rd stitch (on the left) becomes the top of the pile followed by the 2nd then 1st.

Standard k3tog.

Standard k3tog.

The left stitches comes on top of the pile.

The left stitches comes on top of the pile.

2. Right stitch on top – Slip 2 stitches knit-wise, knit the next stitch, pass the slipped stitches over (sl, sl, k, psso)

Sounds a little complicated but basically this time you would have the first stitch on the right to be the top of the pile (i.e. the opposite direction to the standard k3tog).

Slip 2 sts kwise individually.

Slip 2 sts kwise individually, then knit the third stitch.

Then pass the slipped stitch over to the one you have just knitted. This shows the first stitch being passed over.

Then pass the slipped stitch over to the one you have just knitted. This shows the first stitch being passed over.

The second slipped stitch being passed over.

The second slipped stitch being passed over.

3. Centred k3tog – Slide 2 sts together, knit the next stitch, then pass the slide stitch over together (sl2tog, k1, psso tog)

Again, this seem complicated and sounds very similar to the one above, but is different! Instead of individually slipping the stitches, you would slip 2 sts together. This way you would have the second stitch (i.e. the one in the middle) would be the top of the pile. This is useful when you are on the last k3tog of the leaf stitch as it will keep the stitch at the centre without being hidden.

Slip the first two stitches together.

Slip the first two stitches together.

Then knit the 3rd stitch.

Then knit the 3rd stitch.

Lastly, pass these slipped stitch over together.

Lastly, pass these slipped stitch over together.

Got it? :D Same but not the same…..

I really must tidy up the place to make more space!

I really must tidy up the place to make more space!

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Posted in Tutorials | 6 Comments »

How to Attach a Purse onto a Sew-On Frame – Crochet Purse Tutorial

Friday, July 16th, 2010

It’s Friday!! Hope you all had a great week. The week for the world of C & C was quite eventful. The C & C HQ has turned into a research lab to create new patterns (and random bread recipes…).

Today, I want to introduce you to my new improved crochet purse kits and patterns and a tutorial for how to attach the purse onto a sew-on frame.

Crochet purse - wild flowers

This is a crochet kit for confident beginner upwards. The kit comes with 2 balls of yarn and frames so that you can make two purses exactly like the photo above. This means from one kit, you can give one and keep one to yourself. For more information, please click here.

Despite of all the craze about sewn purses, knitted and crochet purses are not often seen. The main reason for this is probably because making knitted purses can be much more difficult than sewn purses due to a very stretchy nature of knitted (less so for crochet) fabrics making the purses saggy and less “structured”.

Knitted purses are special and therefore it is definitely worth overcoming the problem. At C & C HQ, everything I design must be usable so I use the following techniques to get around the problems and create a perfect knitted purse.

1) adding an extra thickness to the knitted fabrics (e.g. lining fabric as in Macaroon Knitted Purses), or

2) using stitches that make tight fabrics (e.g. cables / double crochet (or sc in US terms), or

3) using yarn that makes a strong fabric (e.g. Shetland yarn / tweedy yarn).

Of course, if you put a really heavy thing in it, it will sag but it’s less likely if you use the above techniques. For my new crochet purse kit, I utilised (2) and (3) above to achieve a nice structured purses.

Sew-on frames are used for these crochet purses, because you don’t need to use any glue (you can if you want to but I found it’s not necessary for this size) and I quite like the little yarn stitches that comes out on the frame :D

The following tutorial is to show you how to attach the purse onto a frame. This is a traditional Japanese way of sewing on to the frames.  This will apply to all the sew-on purse frames whether it is knitted, crochet or fabric purses.

Insert the purse into the frame by matching top two corners of the purse to the corners of the frame. Cut yarn approx. 1 m and use this to sew the purse onto the frame.

Step 1: Insert the purse into the frame by matching top two corners of the purse to the corners of the frame. Cut yarn approx. 1 m and use this to sew the purse onto the frame.

Using an embroidery needle that is thin enough to go through the holes of the frame, insert the needle from the WS of the purse (approx. 5 mm from the edge). If this is your first stitch, insert through the second hole.

Step 2: Using an embroidery needle that is thin enough to go through the holes of the frame, insert the needle from the WS of the purse (approx. 5 mm from the edge). If this is your first stitch, insert through the second hole.

<b>Step 3:</b> Then insert the needle into a hole one before where you have just pulled out.

Step 3: Then insert the needle into a hole one before where you have just pulled out.

<b>Step 4:</b> Repeat steps 2 and 3. For knitted or crochet fabrics, make sure the rows of the purse pararells with the line of the frame.

Step 4: Repeat steps 2 and 3. For knitted or crochet fabrics, make sure the rows of the purse pararells with the line of the frame.

<b>Step 5:</b> Tidy ends at the WS of the purse. Make sure both ends of the purse is fully inserted in the gap of the purse frame.

Step 5: Tidy ends at the WS of the purse. Make sure both ends of the purse is fully inserted in the gap of the purse frame.

<b>Step 6:</b> Lastly, cover the frame with a piece of fabric will prevent it from being scratched when squeezing with pliers.

Step 6: Lastly, cover the frame with a piece of fabric will prevent it from being scratched when squeezing with pliers.

That’s it!

… snif, snif… I think my bread is done. Hope you all have a wonderful weekend!

P.S. If you find this tutorial useful, please re-tweet by clicking the re-tweet button (thanks!).

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Posted in Tutorials | 20 Comments »

How to Design a Knitwear from Scratch – 1.2. Get the Right Fit

Saturday, June 26th, 2010

My mind is always about patterning a new garment and writing this series is totally occupying me. Since it does actually take time to gather all the information to write about how to design a knitwear, I think I will do other “light” posts in between from now though :D

Talking about the pattern writing, I am now looking for a knitting patternist, preferably in the UK (people out of the UK are also welcome but there are some issues about the sending the yarn etc), to help me write and edit the knitting patterns. The details are all here so if you are interested in joining the world of Cotton & Cloud (or if you have any questions), please contact me.

Even my mannequins are enjoying the sun.

Even my mannequins are enjoying the sun.

So far, we have gone through the planning stage of the garment to be designed. I have added a summary table at the end of my previous post so do have a look (here) :D

To me, creating a well-fitted knitwear is of paramount importance. What’s the point of a garment if it does not fit you? Getting the right overall measurements and shaping of a garment (e.g. length, width, sleeve shaping, neckline) will help you structure you specification drawing (discussed at later post) and create a well-fitted knitwear. So in this post I will write about general pointers about measurements.

When I work out the measurements to get the right fit, I use two main methods: 1) using the body measurements and work out from them, 2) using a template such as existing garment or patterns. The best thing is to use all of these methods and come up with the super-snug, best-est ever knitwear!

1. Body Measurements

The first thing you would need to do is to take body measurements (although this may not be possible – see later). You can find loads of information about how to measure your body from dress-making books and sites so I won’t go into too much details. But if I were to say the most important parts of the body to measure, they would be:

  • A: Bust / chest (the widest point)
  • B: Sleeve underarm (wrist to the armpit)
  • C: Underarm to waist (I always find it better to add a couple of inches so as to allow the garment to fit well when your moves)

The above will give you the most basic skeleton. But to add more “meat” to the skeleton of your design, measure more if possible such as:

  • D: Centre back neck to waist – This will give you armhole measure when subtracted by underarm to waist.
  • E: Waist (the narrowest point).
  • F: Across the back of the neck
  • G: Top arm (the thickest part of your arm)
I thought this wooden model would be better than me posing naked in front of the camera....

I thought this wooden model would be better than me posing naked in front of the camera....

Body Measurements vs Actual Knitted Measurements = Fits (Ease):

There are body measurements (e.g. bust size) and actual knitted measurements. The actual knitted measurements determines how fitted the garment will be to your body measurements. I found a “fit chart” from Vogue Knitting (The Ultimate Knitting Book) - the measurements on the first row in bold are the actual bust sizes. The various fits are described on the left column. The measurements in the table are the actual knitted measurements of the bust. So for example, if I am 34″ bust and want to make a standard fitting garment, I need my knitted garment’s bust size to be 36″.

Bust sizes 32″
(81cm)		 34″
(86cm)		 36″
(91cm)		 38″
(96cm)		 40″
(101cm)
v. close fitting
(body-hugging)		 30″
(76cm)		 32″
(81cm)		 34″
(86cm)		 36″
(91cm)		 37″
(94cm)
close fitting
(body-contoured)		 32-33″
(81-84cm)		 34-35″
(86-89cm)		 36-37″
(91-94cm)		 38″
(96cm)		 39″
(99cm)
standard fitting
(body-skimming)		 34″
(86cm)		 36″
(91cm)		 38″
(96cm)		 40″
(101cm)		 41″
(104cm)
loose fitting
(straight-hanging)		 36″
(91cm)		 32″
(81cm)		 40″
(101cm)		 42″
(106cm)		 43″
(109cm)
over sized
(full, roomy)		 37″
(94cm)
or more		 38″
(96cm)
or more		 41″
(104cm)
or more		 44″
(112cm)
or more		 45″
(114cm)
or more

In Debbie Abraham’s Design Your Own Knits in 5 Easy Steps (BTW, this book is HIGHLY recommended), she tells us to add extra inches to the body measurements to achieve the desired fit:

Type of fit Amount to add or subtract from total
Tight fitting - 1 – 2 cm (1/2 – 3/4″)
Close fitting + 1 – 2 cm (1/2 – 3/4″)
Standard + 3 – 6 cm (1 1/4 – 2 1/4″)
Easy firing + 6 – 8 cm (2 1/4 – 3 1/4″)
Loose fitting + 10 -15 cm (4 – 6″)
Generous + 18 cm (7″) or more

2. Template

2.1 Existing garment

Even with the same size, knitwear come in all sizes and shapes. As Elizabeth Zimmermann wrote in many of her books (such as in The Opinionated Knitter), use your / his / her best fitted knitwear as a template when you design a knitwear from scratch. What I have found the most useful is to choose the template garment as similar in thickness and texture as the garment you will have create with the chosen yarn.

Many years back, I didn’t think much and used the best-fitted jumper as a template as told. This jumper was, however, much thinner than the yarn I was going to use and much more consistent in texture (thin, machine knitted). When I knitted up my garment, it was completely the wrong fit. So I have learnt my lessons.

Using the best-fitted jumper as your template is particularly useful if you are “secretly” knitting something for your loved ones because you can sneak out the jumper from the drawers and get the measurements quickly. If you are living with a very observant husband / partner who may notice the way the clothes are put away, you can just say that you were tidying up the cupboard for him (LOL!).

2.2 Existing patterns

It’s also a good idea to see what sizes are used for already-published patterns. Again, choose the patterns that use similar yarn, texutre and designs.

2.3 Other resource

If all this turns out to be impossible, try browsing the internet clothes shop to see if they put any of the actual size of the clothes. This will give you some kind of idea where to start. For example I find Boden very helpful because it gives you all the actual measurements on the each clothes. Though bare in mind that the measurements you get from such source will not be complete and you would probably need to use other templates for measurements.

—————–

Phew! I am off to knit alfresco now :D Happy knitting weekend!

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Posted in How to Design a Knitwear from Scratch, Tutorials | 5 Comments »

How to Design a Knitwear from Scratch – 1.1 Planning Before Gauge Measurement

Saturday, June 19th, 2010

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Hello! It’s been just over a week since I last blogged. I can’t believe how fast time passes. I have been super busy in the past couple of weeks so I am sorry if I have been not very good at replying your e-mails and comments quickly. All in all, I think I am nearly up-to-date with my forever-expanding “to-do” list.

I often wonder whether cats ever think they are "busy" or not...

I often wonder whether cats ever think they are "busy" or not...

One of my to-do list is to start designing a men’s sweater for autumn and winter 2010. Autumn is just around the corner and I would like to share with you how I design a knitted garment and introduce you to all the steps I take to create a knitting pattern.

So today is the first series of “How to Design a Knitwear”, the “big-bang” of C&C’s knit design (LOL!).

Even before you start making the gauge (tension) swatch, there are various things that need consideration. Basically it is about brainstorming the ideas of the garment. This will essentially become the backbone of your design. For me, this step is very important because I want to make sure that the garment is functional and wearable. I want the recipient as much as myself to be happy with the finished product. Read on… ;D

1.1 Who is going to wear the garment?
Is the garment for a baby / children / woman / man / unisex? This sounds quite obvious but to me it’s essential to decide first who will wear the garment as it would determine the pattern, materials and design I create. For example I am going to pattern a man’s jumper which will be knitted for a boyfriend, husband, son, father or grandfather. It is something that the knitter would want the person, who receives the garment, to love and wear it as often as possible. This essentially means that the pattern has to be a timely achievable project (so that you can actually give it to the person) and it is interesting to knit but also something that a man would wear it.

1.2 What are the specification of this person? – Decide on the structural design.
Fashionable, simple, fussy, sensitive skin, practical etc. This would give you a clear image of the structure of the garment to make (e.g. V-neck, crew neck, cardigan, hooded, long, short etc.). For example a person with sensitive skin may not want to wear a high neck sweater, while someone who is quite fashionable may prefer it. Babies and elderly people may find it easier to wear cardigans, while kids and adults may prefer crew and v-neck sweaters.

In my case, the person who would wear my design (i.e. men’s sweater) would probably:
- wants something simple, but not just a plain stockinette stitch,
- wants a garment with a simple design such as crew neck rather than cardigan or roll-up collar etc,
- wear the garment as an everyday wear,
etc.

Try to think about what this person would say when you ask “what kind of a sweater would you like me to knit for you?.” Usually when I ask this question to Wesley, his answers are not very helpful (it’s more like this video (i.e. the guy on the right is like me and the left is Wesley) – I find it quite funny so do check it out when you have a moment :D ). Nevertheless it is a good idea to do some research about the person’s specs to design something good.

1.3 Choosing the yarn
I won’t go into detail about the characteristics of different yarns as there are plenty of great information available in books such as Vogue Knitting and online such as Knitter’s Reviews. What I will mention here is more of a practical considerations such as:
- would the garment need frequent washing? (felt, shrink (e.g. denim), colour fastness)
- would you want the garment to last long?
- does it bubble easily?
- what is the colour fastness of the yarn? (does it run with water / fade after some time (e.g. plant dyed yarn).
- does it itch?
etc.

The most important thing is that you knit with the yarn you love.

1.4 Choosing the Pattern
This is the fun part but it can take some time. You can ignore it if you are making a simple stockinette stitch garment.
This section also overlaps with the tension / gauge measurement (in the next series). I usually start making a tension square with stockinette stitch while browsing the treasury of stitch patterns or any other knitting inspirations.
Follow your brain-stormed ideas in section 1.2 when choosing the patterns. For example, as I want to design a men’s crew neck sweater which I want it to be  simple but not that simple, I can focus on the patterns which are relatively simple without much deep textures such as thick cable patterns.

A pattern swatch. Making tension gauge and swatch will be in the next series.

A pattern swatch. Making tension gauge and swatch will be in the next series.

It’s always good to jot down your thought. Here is the mine :D :

In the next series, I will go through about tension / gauge and how it’s very important to make swatches when you design a garment. :D

Who will wear it? boyfriend, husband, son, father or grandfather.
the pattern has to be a timely achievable project
it is interesting to knit but also something that a man would wear it
Specification something simple, but not just a plain stockinette stitch,
a garment with a simple design such as crew neck rather than cardigan or roll-up collar etc,
to wear the garment as an everyday wear,
Yarn Jamieson’s of Scotland Shetland Heather (who guessed?)
Structural specs. Crew neck
Armhole shaping (not decided)
Seamless using circular knitting
Edging / trimming specs. Simple double ribbing for edges
Patterns to incorporate Angled stockinette stitch giving subtle vertical stripe effect.

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Posted in Behind Cotton and Cloud, Tutorials | 13 Comments »

Crochet Terms – American, British and Japanese Equivalence

Friday, May 28th, 2010

Sometimes I wonder what I am good at, confident at and what I have been doing for a long time and I think knitting and crochet are definitely the one because I have been doing it since the age of 7 and 14 in Japanese and English, respectively. I have been patterning my own knitted garments since my late teens. So I guess my expertise is knitting both in English and Japanese.

An interesting thing about learning different languages is that the first word you learn sticks to you. So although I have lived in the UK for nearly 20 years I have been using American crochet terms because that is what I was taught at the beginning.

s

A new crochet pattern will be coming shortly.

Currently there are two crochet patterns in my shop but I am planning to create more in the future, so I thought it would be a good idea to have a simple table of the American, English and Japanese equivalence of some of the crochet terms. Hope this is helpful.

British American Japanese
Chain stitch (ch) Chain stitch (ch) 鎖編み(kusari ami)
Slide stitch (sl st) Slide stitch (sl st) 引き抜き編み(hikinuki ami)
Double crochet (dc) Single crochet (sc) こま編み(koma ami)
Half treble crochet (htr) Half double crochet (hdc) 中長編み(chu-naga ami)
Treble crochet (tr) Double crochet (dc) 長編み(naga ami)
Double treble crochet (dtr) Treble crochet (tr) 長々編み(naga naga ami)

Hope you all have a great weekend!

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Posted in Tutorials | 16 Comments »

Knitting Tutorial – Frills & Ruffles

Friday, April 16th, 2010

How has your week been? Hope it was a nice productive one. For me, I think the holiday is definitely over as it is getting very busy in the world of C&C. Wata kept waking me up all night last night, so I am really sleepy!

Today I would like to introduce you to 3 kinds of knitting frills: 1) simple gathered frills, 2) bell edging (2 ways) and 3) short-row frills. Frills / ruffles add such a nice feature to knitted garment. My new knitting pattern called Mermaid Bolero is an example how simple frills add extra gorgeous-ness. :)

This really pretty image was taken by Melissa from Melissa Corcoran Photography. I love this so much!

This really pretty image was taken by Melissa from Melissa Corcoran Photography. I love this so much!

Note: Arrows indicate the direction of the frills. For example (↑) means that the frills are knitted from bottom up while (↓) means from top down. (→) means that they are knitted side ways.

1) Simple Gathered Frills (↑)

In a nutshell: CO 3-4 times the amount of final sts you want. Once you reach the desired length of the frills, gather at the top (either k3tog if you multiplied by 3, or k2tog for 2 rows if you multiplied by 4).

Advantage: This is the easiest method of making frills. They are dense and effective.

Disadvantage: You have to CO so many sts which could be daunting.

Gathered frills. Although it involves lots of stitches to start off with, the frills are dense, cute and easy to do.

Gathered frills. Although it involves lots of stitches to start off with, the frills are dense, cute and easy to do.

2) Bell edging (either ↓ or ↑)

In a nutshell: 2 sts are either inc or dec for every repeat on alternate rows. It gives a very prominent frills due to the use of ribbing. Bell frills can be knitted either up or down-wards according to your need.

Advantage: Does not involve as many stitch number as the gathered frill technique. It also gives an ordered and prominent frill effect. The identical effect can be achieved by both up or down direction of knitting (see further).

Disadvantage: The frills are not as dense and random as the gathered frills.

2.1) Bell Edging (↑) bottom up

Multiple of 12 sts plus 3.

Row 1 (RS): p3, *k9, p3. Repeat from * until end.

Row2 (WS): k3, *p9, k3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 3: p3, *ssk, k5, k2tog, p3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 4: k3, *p7 k3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 5: p3, *ssk, k3, k2tog, p3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 6: k3, *p5, k3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 7: p3, *ssk, k1, k2tog, p3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 8: k3, *p3, k3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 9: p3, *sl2tog, k1, psso, p3. Repeat from * until end..

Row 10: k3, *p1, k3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 11: p3, *k1, p3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 12: As row 10.

Bell edging knitted from bottom up.

Bell edging knitted from bottom up.

2.2) Bell Edging (↓) top down

Multiple of 4 sts plus 3.

Row 1 (RS): *p3, k1. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, p3.

Row2 (WS): *k3, p1. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, k3.

Row 3 and 4: Repeat rows 1 and 2 once more.

Row 5: *p3, (k1, p1tbl, k1) into the next st. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, p3.

Row 6: *k3, p3. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, k3.

Row 7: *p3, yf, k3, yb. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, p3.

Row 8: *k3, p5. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, k3. When you work the yo (i.e. yb and yf) made in the previous row, make sure to twist these sts to prevent holes being made. The same applies to the subsequent rows.

Row 9: *p3, yf, k5, yb. Repeat from * the last 3 sts, p3.

Row 10: *k3, p7. Repeat from * until end.

Row 11: *p3, yf, k7, yb. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, p3.

Row 12: *k3, p9. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, k3.

Row 13: BO.

Bell edging worked top down. Identical effect to the bell eding worked bottom up. Very useful indeed :D

Bell edging worked top down. Identical effect to the bell eding worked bottom up. Very useful indeed :D

3) Short-row Frills (→)

In a nutshell: This is basically a series of horizontal darts to make a spiral with garter stitch. Stitches are later picked from the shorter edge and knitted at right angle. This technique can also be used to add frills on right or left side of the piece with larger number of stitches.

Spirals become frills :D

Spirals become frills :D

Advantage: The length of frills depends on the number of sts casted on. So you can easily control how long / short your frills to be. It also gives a very prominent, ordered and dense frills.

Disadvantage: It is a very time-consuming process as garter stitches does not grow fast… I only recommend this technique when you are working on a smaller projects.

CO 10 sts.

Row 1: k8, wrap and turn. Row 2: k8.

Row 3: k7, wrap and turn. Row 4: k7.

Row 5: k6, wrap and turn. Row 6: k6.

Row 7: k5, wrap and turn. Row 8: k5.

Row 9: k4, wrap and turn. Row 10: k4.

Row 11: k3, wrap and turn. Row 12: k3.

Row 13: k2, wrap and turn. Row 14: k2.

Row 15 and 16: k10. Note: here, you have an option of picking up the wrap (see the video tutorial). With garter stitch, you don’t usually need to pick up the wrap but depending on the yarn, you may have holes where you have wrapped and turned.

Repeat these 16 rows until you have the desired length along the shorter edge. Then pick up the desired number of stitches to knit vertically (below).

Short row frills after picking up the stitches along the shorter edge to knit vertically.

Short row frills after picking up the stitches along the shorter edge to knit vertically.

Do try them out. You will love the effects for all frill types ;)

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