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How to Attach a Purse onto a Sew-On Frame – Crochet Purse Tutorial

Friday, July 16th, 2010

It’s Friday!! Hope you all had a great week. The week for the world of C & C was quite eventful. The C & C HQ has turned into a research lab to create new patterns (and random bread recipes…).

Today, I want to introduce you to my new improved crochet purse kits and patterns and a tutorial for how to attach the purse onto a sew-on frame.

Crochet purse - wild flowers

This is a crochet kit for confident beginner upwards. The kit comes with 2 balls of yarn and frames so that you can make two purses exactly like the photo above. This means from one kit, you can give one and keep one to yourself. For more information, please click here.

Despite of all the craze about sewn purses, knitted and crochet purses are not often seen. The main reason for this is probably because making knitted purses can be much more difficult than sewn purses due to a very stretchy nature of knitted (less so for crochet) fabrics making the purses saggy and less “structured”.

Knitted purses are special and therefore it is definitely worth overcoming the problem. At C & C HQ, everything I design must be usable so I use the following techniques to get around the problems and create a perfect knitted purse.

1) adding an extra thickness to the knitted fabrics (e.g. lining fabric as in Macaroon Knitted Purses), or

2) using stitches that make tight fabrics (e.g. cables / double crochet (or sc in US terms), or

3) using yarn that makes a strong fabric (e.g. Shetland yarn / tweedy yarn).

Of course, if you put a really heavy thing in it, it will sag but it’s less likely if you use the above techniques. For my new crochet purse kit, I utilised (2) and (3) above to achieve a nice structured purses.

Sew-on frames are used for these crochet purses, because you don’t need to use any glue (you can if you want to but I found it’s not necessary for this size) and I quite like the little yarn stitches that comes out on the frame

The following tutorial is to show you how to attach the purse onto a frame. This is a traditional Japanese way of sewing on to the frames. This will apply to all the sew-on purse frames whether it is knitted, crochet or fabric purses.

Insert the purse into the frame by matching top two corners of the purse to the corners of the frame. Cut yarn approx. 1 m and use this to sew the purse onto the frame.

Step 1: Insert the purse into the frame by matching top two corners of the purse to the corners of the frame. Cut yarn approx. 1 m and use this to sew the purse onto the frame.

Using an embroidery needle that is thin enough to go through the holes of the frame, insert the needle from the WS of the purse (approx. 5 mm from the edge). If this is your first stitch, insert through the second hole.

Step 2: Using an embroidery needle that is thin enough to go through the holes of the frame, insert the needle from the WS of the purse (approx. 5 mm from the edge). If this is your first stitch, insert through the second hole.

<b>Step 3:</b> Then insert the needle into a hole one before where you have just pulled out.

Step 3: Then insert the needle into a hole one before where you have just pulled out.

<b>Step 4:</b> Repeat steps 2 and 3. For knitted or crochet fabrics, make sure the rows of the purse pararells with the line of the frame.

Step 4: Repeat steps 2 and 3. For knitted or crochet fabrics, make sure the rows of the purse pararells with the line of the frame.

<b>Step 5:</b> Tidy ends at the WS of the purse. Make sure both ends of the purse is fully inserted in the gap of the purse frame.

Step 5: Tidy ends at the WS of the purse. Make sure both ends of the purse is fully inserted in the gap of the purse frame.

<b>Step 6:</b> Lastly, cover the frame with a piece of fabric will prevent it from being scratched when squeezing with pliers.

Step 6: Lastly, cover the frame with a piece of fabric will prevent it from being scratched when squeezing with pliers.

That’s it!

… snif, snif… I think my bread is done. Hope you all have a wonderful weekend!

P.S. If you find this tutorial useful, please re-tweet by clicking the re-tweet button (thanks!).

Tags: crochet, crochet purse, how to, knitting tutorial, purse frames, sew-on
Posted in Tutorials | 20 Comments »

Knitting Tutorial – Frills & Ruffles

Friday, April 16th, 2010

How has your week been? Hope it was a nice productive one. For me, I think the holiday is definitely over as it is getting very busy in the world of C&C. Wata kept waking me up all night last night, so I am really sleepy!

Today I would like to introduce you to 3 kinds of knitting frills: 1) simple gathered frills, 2) bell edging (2 ways) and 3) short-row frills. Frills / ruffles add such a nice feature to knitted garment. My new knitting pattern called Mermaid Bolero is an example how simple frills add extra gorgeous-ness.

This really pretty image was taken by Melissa from Melissa Corcoran Photography. I love this so much!

Note: Arrows indicate the direction of the frills. For example (↑) means that the frills are knitted from bottom up while (↓) means from top down. (→) means that they are knitted side ways.

1) Simple Gathered Frills (↑)

In a nutshell: CO 3-4 times the amount of final sts you want. Once you reach the desired length of the frills, gather at the top (either k3tog if you multiplied by 3, or k2tog for 2 rows if you multiplied by 4).

Advantage: This is the easiest method of making frills. They are dense and effective.

Disadvantage: You have to CO so many sts which could be daunting.

Gathered frills. Although it involves lots of stitches to start off with, the frills are dense, cute and easy to do.

2) Bell edging (either ↓ or ↑)

In a nutshell: 2 sts are either inc or dec for every repeat on alternate rows. It gives a very prominent frills due to the use of ribbing. Bell frills can be knitted either up or down-wards according to your need.

Advantage: Does not involve as many stitch number as the gathered frill technique. It also gives an ordered and prominent frill effect. The identical effect can be achieved by both up or down direction of knitting (see further).

Disadvantage: The frills are not as dense and random as the gathered frills.

2.1) Bell Edging (↑) bottom up

Multiple of 12 sts plus 3.

Row 1: p3, *k9, p3. Repeat from * until end.

Row2: k3, *p9, k3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 3: p3, *ssk, k5, k2tog, p3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 4: k3, *p7 k3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 5: p3, *ssk, k3, k2tog, p3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 6: k3, *p5, k3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 7: p3, *ssk, k1, k2tog, p3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 8: k3, *p3, k3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 9: p3, *sl2tog, k1, psso, p3. Repeat from * until end..

Row 10: k3, *p1, k3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 11: p3, *k1, p3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 12: As row 10.

Bell edging knitted from bottom up.

2.2) Bell Edging (↓) top down

Multiple of 4 sts plus 3.

Row 1: *p3, k1. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, p3.

Row2: *k3, p1. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, k3.

Row 3 and 4: Repeat rows 1 and 2 once more.

Row 5: *p3, (k1, p1tbl, k1) into the next st. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, p3.

Row 6: *k3, p3. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, k3.

Row 7: *p3, yf, k3, yb. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, p3.

Row 8: *k3, p5. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, k3. When you work the yo (i.e. yb and yf) made in the previous row, make sure to twist these sts to prevent holes being made. The same applies to the subsequent rows.

Row 9: *p3, yf, k5, yb. Repeat from * the last 3 sts, p3.

Row 10: *k3, p7. Repeat from * until end.

Row 11: *p3, yf, k7, yb. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, p3.

Row 12: *k3, p9. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, k3.

Row 13: BO.

Bell edging worked top down. Identical effect to the bell eding worked bottom up. Very useful indeed

3) Short-row Frills (→)

In a nutshell: This is basically a series of horizontal darts to make a spiral with garter stitch. Stitches are later picked from the shorter edge and knitted at right angle. This technique can also be used to add frills on right or left side of the piece with larger number of stitches.

Spirals become frills

Advantage: The length of frills depends on the number of sts casted on. So you can easily control how long / short your frills to be. It also gives a very prominent, ordered and dense frills.

Disadvantage: It is a very time-consuming process as garter stitches does not grow fast… I only recommend this technique when you are working on a smaller projects.

CO 10 sts.

Row 1: k8, wrap and turn. Row 2: k8.

Row 3: k7, wrap and turn. Row 4: k7.

Row 5: k6, wrap and turn. Row 6: k6.

Row 7: k5, wrap and turn. Row 8: k5.

Row 9: k4, wrap and turn. Row 10: k4.

Row 11: k3, wrap and turn. Row 12: k3.

Row 13: k2, wrap and turn. Row 14: k2.

Row 15 and 16: k10. Note: here, you have an option of picking up the wrap (see the video tutorial). With garter stitch, you don’t usually need to pick up the wrap but depending on the yarn, you may have holes where you have wrapped and turned.

Repeat these 16 rows until you have the desired length along the shorter edge. Then pick up the desired number of stitches to knit vertically (below).

Short row frills after picking up the stitches along the shorter edge to knit vertically.

Do try them out. You will love the effects for all frill types

Phew! That’s it for now I hope you all have a great weekend! *hugs*

Tags: frills, how to, knitting tutorial, ruffles, Tutorials
Posted in Tutorials | 27 Comments »

Knitting Tutorial: How to Knit Perpendicular (Out of Fabric / 3D Knitting)

Monday, November 2nd, 2009

Knitting perpendicular

Why? – you may ask me. Well, it might come in handy some day! I used this technique for my new pattern which is coming out before the Harrogate Knitting & Stitching Show. I know you will all love it

When you want to knit perpendicular (out of fabric or 3D knitting), normally you would pick up stitches afterward (fig. 1). If you want to pick up stitches exactly straight across the row, this can be a little tricky especially if you didn’t mark the position (yes, I have done this so many times).

Fig. 1

When I was a university student, my lecturer used to say to us “be prepared for anything”. Since then my life is all about preparation and I have devised an alternative method for perpendicular / 3D knitting.

ADVANTAGE:

It prepares the stitches before hand (so you don’t need to pick them up later)
It gives the stitches at an exact position precisely without picking them up later. This will reduce the risk of picking the wrong stitches.

POSSIBLE DISADVANTAGE

You may not know how many stitches you would like at the time.
You would have to rest the stitches until they are used.

INFORMATION: I have 20 sts and I would like to knit the centre 10 sts perpendicular (i.e. have 5 sts on either sides).

You are at a row which you would like to knit perpendicular later on (in my case after 10th row). If you are knitting flat, this should be at WS row. If you are knitting in circle you can do this on the RS.

Work up to a stitch where you will be knitting in perpendicular (in my case p5) (fig. 2).

Fig. 2.

For flat knitting, *p1, p1tbl into the same st (fig. 3). Repeat from * for a desired number of stitches (in my case 10 times).

For circular knitting, *k1, k1tbl into the same st. Repeat from * for a desired number of stitches (in my case 10 times).

Fig. 3

You should now have double the amount of sts to knit perpendicular (for example, I want 10 sts to knit perpendicular so I now have 20 sts) (fig. 4).

Fig. 4

Turn the work. Knit until you encounter the increased sts which you have made in the previous row (in my case k5).

For flat knitting, knit this stitch as usual (fig. 5) then thread the waste yarn into the next stitch. Drop this stitch (it will not unravel because there is a waste yarn through it (fig. 6).

Fig. 5

Fig. 6

Repeat this process again: *k1, thread the next st with waste yarn and drop this stitch. Repeat from * until you have worked all the increased sts (i.e. in my case 20 sts). You can now see that you are back with the original number of sts and the increased sts are transferred onto the waste yarn (fig. 7).

Fig. 7

Note: You will always have to knit the stitches made tbl and thread the ordinary stitch onto a waste yarn. So for circular knitting, this means you would have to thread the stitch first, then knit the next stitch.

Continue to work up to the desired length. Cast off.

When you are ready to knit perpendicular, insert the needle into the loops and pull the waste yarn away. If you are knitting with a pair of knitting needles, insert the needle from the left (fig. 8).