Posts Tagged ‘knitting tutorial’

Knitting Tutorials – Simple One-Strand Cast-Ons 1 (Loop & Twisted Loop)

Tuesday, February 9th, 2010

There are so many ways which you can cast-on, but generally you would only use 1-2 methods (I use crochet cast on or two-stranded cast on). But I wanted to introduce you to various ways of casting on because they all have their purpose. In the next two weeks, I would like to introduce you 4 versions of simple one-stranded cast-ons. This week, I will talk about 1) LOOP, 2) TWISTED LOOP, followed by  3) ALTERNATE LOOP and 4) DOUBLE TWIST LOOP cast-ons next week.

LOOP & TWISTED LOOP CAST ON

They are basic. But they are very useful for increasing sts (more than 2) which you would later pick up (e.g. neck edges, armholes etc). This is because of the understated edge that loop cast on gives. When you pick up sts made by loop methods, the seam would have less bulk and it is able to stretch more freely (c.f. cable cast on). Ideal for armhole, underarm and necklines etc.

1) LOOP CAST ON

♥ Use when you will be working on knit stitch on the cast on (you will see what I mean)

Step 1: Using your middle finger, press down the working yarn (green arrow).

Step 1: Using your middle finger, press down the working yarn (green arrow).

Step 2: A loop will be made between your first and middle fingers. Insert your needle into the loop from befind towards you.

Step 2: A loop will be made between your first and middle fingers. Insert your needle into the loop from behind towards you.

Step 3: Repease and pull down the working yarn (green arrow).

Step 3: Repease and pull down the working yarn (green arrow).

Use this loop method when you make knit stitch to start the row.

Use this loop method when you make knit stitch to start the row.

Increased stitches on the right side of the work by loop method.

Increased stitches on the right side of the work by loop method.

Check the direction of the loop compare to the twisted loop method (below). The working yarn (on the left) is tucked underneath.

Check the direction of the loop compare to the twisted loop method (below). The working yarn (on the left) is tucked underneath.

2) TWISTED LOOP CAST ON

♥ Use when you are working on purl stitch on the next row.

Step 1: Using your thumb, push down the working yarn (green arrow).

Step 1: Using your thumb, push down the working yarn (green arrow).

Step 2: Swing your thumnb towards you (green arrow). This will make the yarn loop around the thumb. Insert the needle through this loop from below (blue arrow).

Step 2: Swing your thumnb towards you (green arrow). This will make the yarn loop around the thumb. Insert the needle through this loop from below (blue arrow).

Looking from a different angle. The needle is already through the loop.

Looking from a different angle. The needle is already through the loop.

Step 4: Pull the working yarn (green arrow). Note the direction of the twist is different from the loop method.

Step 4: Pull the working yarn (green arrow). Note the direction of the twist is different from the loop method.

twisted loop 5

Note the direction of the loop compared to the standard loop cast on method.

I have made video tutorials for both loop cast on and twisted loop cast on.

Happy knitting! :D

P.S. If you like the tutorial, please re-tweet this post :D (thank you!)

Knitting Tutorial: How to Knit Perpendicular (Out of Fabric / 3D Knitting)

Monday, November 2nd, 2009
knitting perpendicular

Knitting perpendicular

Why? – you may ask me. Well, it might come in handy some day! :D   I used this technique for my new pattern which is coming out before the Harrogate Knitting & Stitching Show. I know you will all love it :D

When you want to knit perpendicular (out of fabric or 3D knitting), normally you would pick up stitches afterward (fig. 1). If you want to pick up stitches exactly straight across the row, this can be a little tricky especially if you didn’t mark the position (yes, I have done this so many times).

Fig. 1

Fig. 1

When I was a university student, my lecturer used to say to us “be prepared for anything”. Since then my life is all about preparation and I have devised an alternative method for perpendicular / 3D knitting.

ADVANTAGE:

  • It prepares the stitches before hand (so you don’t need to pick them up later)
  • It gives the stitches at an exact position precisely without picking them up later. This will reduce the risk of picking the wrong stitches.

POSSIBLE DISADVANTAGE

  • You may not know how many stitches you would like at the time.
  • You would have to rest the stitches until they are used.

INFORMATION: I have 20 sts and I would like to knit the centre 10 sts perpendicular (i.e. have 5 sts on either sides).

You are at a row which you would like to knit perpendicular later on (in my case after 10th row). If you are knitting flat, this should be at WS row. If you are knitting in circle you can do this on the RS.

Work up to a stitch where you will be knitting in perpendicular (in my case p5) (fig. 2).

Fig. 2.

Fig. 2.

For flat knitting, *p1, p1tbl into the same st (fig. 3). Repeat from * for a desired number of stitches (in my case 10 times).

For circular knitting, *k1, k1tbl into the same st. Repeat from * for a desired number of stitches (in my case 10 times).

Fig. 3

Fig. 3

You should now have double the amount of sts to knit perpendicular (for example, I want 10 sts to knit perpendicular so I now have 20 sts) (fig. 4).

Fig. 4

Fig. 4

Turn the work. Knit until you encounter the increased sts which you have made in the previous row (in my case k5).

For flat knitting, knit this stitch as usual (fig. 5) then thread the waste yarn into the next stitch. Drop this stitch (it will not unravel because there is a waste yarn through it (fig. 6).

Fig. 5

Fig. 5

Fig. 6

Fig. 6

Repeat this process again: *k1, thread the next st with waste yarn and drop this stitch. Repeat from * until you have worked all the increased sts (i.e. in my case 20 sts). You can now see that you are back with the original number of sts and the increased sts are transferred onto the waste yarn (fig. 7).

Fig. 7

Fig. 7

Note: You will always have to knit the stitches made tbl and thread the ordinary stitch onto a waste yarn. So for circular knitting, this means you would have to thread the stitch first, then knit the next stitch.

Continue to work up to the desired length. Cast off.

When you are ready to knit perpendicular, insert the needle into the loops and pull the waste yarn away. If you are knitting with a pair of knitting needles, insert the needle from the left (fig. 8).

Fig. 8

Fig. 8

Join yarn and continue knitting perpendicular. Tidying the end is easy. Just thread into the WS of the work and tie a knot (fig. 9).

Fig. 9

Fig. 9

I have made a video tutorial of this if you are interested…(don’t like hearing my own voice tho!!).

SUGGESTED USE:

Plush – e.g. bird’s wing, animal ears…

Decoration on a jupmer

Flaps on a glove etc.

Enjoy! :D

Two-Stranded Tubular Cast-On

Monday, April 28th, 2008

Today I want to introduce two-stranded tubular cast-on method, which many knitters may be familiar with but still a very useful technique to know. Many knitting patterns simply tell you to cast on for the ribbing, but the finished knitting won’t stretch enough at the rib edges and that one would have difficulty wearing it or taking it off.
Two stranded tubular cast-on method enables the ribbing edge to stretch and recover well. This is perfect for cuffs, waist band, neck line etc. It also has a neat finish which looks the same both on the right (RS) or the wrong side (WS) of the garment.

Method:
As usual for knitting in rib, work with needles 2-3 sizes less than the actual needles used for the yarn. I have a video tutorial which might be helpful :D


Step 1: Make a slip knot, leaving a free end approx. 4 times the desired width. Insert a needle though the loop. This counts as a first stitch.
Step 2: Hold the yarn on your left hand. The free end around the thumb and the main yarn on the first finger. The needle is located in between the thumb and the first finger.
Step 3: Flick the needle forward in front of the free end, then loop under it. Bring the needle over behind the main yarn, loop under it. You have just made a knit stitch.
Step 4: Flick the needle backward, behind the main yarn, then under it. Bring the needle over, in front of the free end, loop back under it. You have just made a purl stitch.

You now have a first stitch (that you made in step 1), a K stitch (in step 3) and a P stitch (in step 4). If you being with step 4, then you would have the first stitch, P then K.Repeat step 3 and 4 until you have the desired number of stitches. Tie the 2 strands under the needle after the last stitch.
When you are ready to turn the work to knit the second row, make sure you K, if you finished the last stitch on step 4, or P if you end the last stitch at step 3.

Additional Tip:
For a tighter edging, work 1-2 rows by slide the purl stitch purl-wise with yarn in front.