Posts Tagged ‘Tutorials’

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How to Knit Single or Odd Numbered Row Stripe Pattern Without Cutting Yarns.

Tuesday, January 31st, 2012

When you knit a single / odd numbered-row stripe pattern in flat knitting, you keep having to cut the yarn and re-join the new colours. I don’t really like having lots of strands to tidy at the end.

This meant that I never really designed any flat-knitting-style pattern with single / odd numbered stripes. BUT things are now changing!!!!!

I have discovered the way to knit a single / odd numbered stripe patterns without cutting the yarn and rejoining the new colours using circular needles and today I will show you how this can be done.

Following is the basic rule to this technique:

  • 1) It only applies to flat knitting (and not circular).
  • 2) You need a circular needle to make this happen.
  • 3) When the colour of the yarn you want to knit on the next row is NOT at the beginning of the next row (i.e. still at the beginning of the previous row), pull the needle to the left all the way to the other end of the circular needle. This means that you may knit the Right or  Wrong side row more than once – so keep an eye on the row count.

Here is how to do it.

Step 1: Knit 1 row with colour 1 (in this case, pink) (pic below).

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

Step 2: The next colour I want to knit is green. But this green yarn is not at the beginning of the next row (i.e. still at the beginning of the previous row (on the right). So I pull the needle to the left. Hold the fabric and move all the way to the other end of the needle facing the right (pic below).

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

Pic below shows where all the stitches have moved to the other end of the needle, which is facing the right.

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

You can now knit with the green yarn without having to cut and re-joining (pic below).

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn and rejoining

Notice that when you work the green yarn, you have knitted the RS row again (pic below).

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

Step 3: The next row I want to knit is pink. This time, the pink yarn is already at the beginning of the next row, which means that you can work the next row straight away without pulling the needle (pic below).

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

Step 4: After working one row (or an odd number of the row) with pink, I now want to knit the next colour with green. But the green yarn is not at the beginning of the next row (i.e.still at the beginning of the previous row). So I pull the needle all the way to the other end.

how to knit a single or odd numbered stripe pattern without cutting the yarn

Work the WS row again but without cutting the yarn (pic below).

knit_single_stripe_9

That’s it.

Using this technique, you can do various combinations of rows in stripe patterns as well as colours. I experimented with single garter pattern using this technique and I really like how the pattern looks – it’s retro!

single stripe garter stitch

Below is the video tutorial on this technique :) Happy stripe knitting!

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Posted in Tutorials | 10 Comments »

Wrap and Turn, Short-row Knitting Tutorial

Thursday, November 3rd, 2011

Do you have a favourite knitting technique that you use all the time? Mine is “wrap and turn”. The reason why I am blogging about wrap & turn is because many of my patterns include this technique. So, I thought it is about time for me to do a detailed tutorial about it.

Recently one of my new patterns called Hollyberry Bonnet & Cape have been published in Interweave Holiday Gift 2011 (super hurray!). This pattern is a typical example of wrap & turn technique.The horizontally shaping of the cape and the bonnet brim shaping are all worked using short-row technique.

I was thrilled to read in the magazine that the design is expertly shaped and designed. Seeing such a wonderfully edited and stylised publication of my knitting pattern, it made me think even more that I want to make sure that my patterns are logically constructed, knitable and achievable with 100% satisfaction!

Hollyberry Bonnet and Cape

So today I would like to write a detailed knitting tutorial about “wrap & turn”.

WRAP & TURN is one of the methods in short-row knitting. Short-row knitting allows you to change the direction of knitting, creating darts, mitred corners, vertical gathers and curves. It’s used for toe-up sock (the toe bits), horizontal yoke garments and lots of other 3D knitting!

In a nutshell: wrap & turn is worked as taking the yarn to opposite side of work (so if you are on the knit stitch, bring yarn front, if you are on the purl stitch, bring yarn back), slip next stitch from left to right needle, return yarn to working side, then slip st back from right to left needle. This will wrap the base of the stitch. The remaining stitches are unworked. Turn and continue working.

If you want to master all knitting techniques including various short-row knitting methods, I highly recommend Knitter’s Handbook by M. Stanley.

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The process of short-row knitting (i.e. wrap & turn) is divided by two stages: 1) The first stage is to do the actual wrap & turn, 2) The second stage is to “erase” the wraps by working together the wrap with the stitch.

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STAGE 1: WRAP AND TURN

RIGHT-SIDE of the work

When you reach to the stitch where you need to wrap & turn;

You will see that the stitch has a wrap at the base.

WRONG-SIDE of the work

When you reach to the stitch where you need to wrap & turn;

You will see that the stitch has a wrap at the base.

————–

STAGE 2: ERASING THE WRAPS

This is done so as to prevent a hole being made between the rows. You can ignore this process if you like the wraps to remain for a decorative purpose.

The most important thing is to pick up the wrap from the right-side of the work. This way, all the wraps would be tucked behind the wrong side of the work after the stitches are knitted together.

You can pick up the wrap either with right or the left needles. I will show you how you can do both methods.

RIGHT-SIDE of the work

METHOD 1) Using right needle (very similar to slip, slip, knit (ssk)):

METHOD 2) Using the left needle:

WRONG-SIDE of the work

METHOD 1) Using right needle:

METHOD 2) Using the left needle:

Here is the video tutorial.

Happy knitting!

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Posted in Tutorials | 9 Comments »

How to Design a Knitwear from Scratch – 1.1 Planning Before Gauge Measurement

Saturday, June 19th, 2010

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Hello! It’s been just over a week since I last blogged. I can’t believe how fast time passes. I have been super busy in the past couple of weeks so I am sorry if I have been not very good at replying your e-mails and comments quickly. All in all, I think I am nearly up-to-date with my forever-expanding “to-do” list.

I often wonder whether cats ever think they are "busy" or not...

I often wonder whether cats ever think they are "busy" or not...

One of my to-do list is to start designing a men’s sweater for autumn and winter 2010. Autumn is just around the corner and I would like to share with you how I design a knitted garment and introduce you to all the steps I take to create a knitting pattern.

So today is the first series of “How to Design a Knitwear”, the “big-bang” of C&C’s knit design (LOL!).

Even before you start making the gauge (tension) swatch, there are various things that need consideration. Basically it is about brainstorming the ideas of the garment. This will essentially become the backbone of your design. For me, this step is very important because I want to make sure that the garment is functional and wearable. I want the recipient as much as myself to be happy with the finished product. Read on… ;D

1.1 Who is going to wear the garment?
Is the garment for a baby / children / woman / man / unisex? This sounds quite obvious but to me it’s essential to decide first who will wear the garment as it would determine the pattern, materials and design I create. For example I am going to pattern a man’s jumper which will be knitted for a boyfriend, husband, son, father or grandfather. It is something that the knitter would want the person, who receives the garment, to love and wear it as often as possible. This essentially means that the pattern has to be a timely achievable project (so that you can actually give it to the person) and it is interesting to knit but also something that a man would wear it.

1.2 What are the specification of this person? – Decide on the structural design.
Fashionable, simple, fussy, sensitive skin, practical etc. This would give you a clear image of the structure of the garment to make (e.g. V-neck, crew neck, cardigan, hooded, long, short etc.). For example a person with sensitive skin may not want to wear a high neck sweater, while someone who is quite fashionable may prefer it. Babies and elderly people may find it easier to wear cardigans, while kids and adults may prefer crew and v-neck sweaters.

In my case, the person who would wear my design (i.e. men’s sweater) would probably:
- wants something simple, but not just a plain stockinette stitch,
- wants a garment with a simple design such as crew neck rather than cardigan or roll-up collar etc,
- wear the garment as an everyday wear,
etc.

Try to think about what this person would say when you ask “what kind of a sweater would you like me to knit for you?.” Usually when I ask this question to Wesley, his answers are not very helpful (it’s more like this video (i.e. the guy on the right is like me and the left is Wesley) – I find it quite funny so do check it out when you have a moment :D ). Nevertheless it is a good idea to do some research about the person’s specs to design something good.

1.3 Choosing the yarn
I won’t go into detail about the characteristics of different yarns as there are plenty of great information available in books such as Vogue Knitting and online such as Knitter’s Reviews. What I will mention here is more of a practical considerations such as:
- would the garment need frequent washing? (felt, shrink (e.g. denim), colour fastness)
- would you want the garment to last long?
- does it bubble easily?
- what is the colour fastness of the yarn? (does it run with water / fade after some time (e.g. plant dyed yarn).
- does it itch?
etc.

The most important thing is that you knit with the yarn you love.

1.4 Choosing the Pattern
This is the fun part but it can take some time. You can ignore it if you are making a simple stockinette stitch garment.
This section also overlaps with the tension / gauge measurement (in the next series). I usually start making a tension square with stockinette stitch while browsing the treasury of stitch patterns or any other knitting inspirations.
Follow your brain-stormed ideas in section 1.2 when choosing the patterns. For example, as I want to design a men’s crew neck sweater which I want it to be  simple but not that simple, I can focus on the patterns which are relatively simple without much deep textures such as thick cable patterns.

A pattern swatch. Making tension gauge and swatch will be in the next series.

A pattern swatch. Making tension gauge and swatch will be in the next series.

It’s always good to jot down your thought. Here is the mine :D :

In the next series, I will go through about tension / gauge and how it’s very important to make swatches when you design a garment. :D

Who will wear it? boyfriend, husband, son, father or grandfather.
the pattern has to be a timely achievable project
it is interesting to knit but also something that a man would wear it
Specification something simple, but not just a plain stockinette stitch,
a garment with a simple design such as crew neck rather than cardigan or roll-up collar etc,
to wear the garment as an everyday wear,
Yarn Jamieson’s of Scotland Shetland Heather (who guessed?)
Structural specs. Crew neck
Armhole shaping (not decided)
Seamless using circular knitting
Edging / trimming specs. Simple double ribbing for edges
Patterns to incorporate Angled stockinette stitch giving subtle vertical stripe effect.

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Posted in Behind Cotton and Cloud, Tutorials | 13 Comments »

Crochet Terms – American, British and Japanese Equivalence

Friday, May 28th, 2010

Sometimes I wonder what I am good at, confident at and what I have been doing for a long time and I think knitting and crochet are definitely the one because I have been doing it since the age of 7 and 14 in Japanese and English, respectively. I have been patterning my own knitted garments since my late teens. So I guess my expertise is knitting both in English and Japanese.

An interesting thing about learning different languages is that the first word you learn sticks to you. So although I have lived in the UK for nearly 20 years I have been using American crochet terms because that is what I was taught at the beginning.

s

A new crochet pattern will be coming shortly.

Currently there are two crochet patterns in my shop but I am planning to create more in the future, so I thought it would be a good idea to have a simple table of the American, English and Japanese equivalence of some of the crochet terms. Hope this is helpful.

British American Japanese
Chain stitch (ch) Chain stitch (ch) 鎖編み(kusari ami)
Slide stitch (sl st) Slide stitch (sl st) 引き抜き編み(hikinuki ami)
Double crochet (dc) Single crochet (sc) こま編み(koma ami)
Half treble crochet (htr) Half double crochet (hdc) 中長編み(chu-naga ami)
Treble crochet (tr) Double crochet (dc) 長編み(naga ami)
Double treble crochet (dtr) Treble crochet (tr) 長々編み(naga naga ami)

Hope you all have a great weekend!

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Posted in Tutorials | 16 Comments »

FREE PDF Knitting Pattern – Frilled City Scarf

Tuesday, May 4th, 2010

It’s May already… and you know what this means? It’s the month of my 10k run!!!

Today, I would like to share with you my latest FREE knitting pattern called “Frilled City Scarf”.

C&C's latest free charity knitting pattern :D

C&C's latest free charity knitting pattern :D

The pattern includes 2 versions: medium length to wear as above and the long version for those who would like to do the European loop (I found a webpage to show you how you can wear scarf here).

A nice not-so-wide scarf, ideal for cold sunny days in the city.

A smart not-so-wide scarf, ideal for cold sunny days in the city.

You can see I am totally into frill knitting at the moment. I based the main scarf pattern as the leaf motif. Bobbles are added to make them look like red fruit stuck on the leaves :D

This brings back lots of my fond childhood memories of red fruit plants like lantern plants in Japan. I think wearing accessories should makes you happy as much as make you look good.

Usually knitting a scarf for a gift is a long process but this pattern is a fun and quick knit and is ideal for a gift.

Usually knitting a scarf for a gift is a long process but this pattern is a fun and quick knit and is ideal for a gift.

download now

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Posted in Free Patterns | 17 Comments »

Knitting Tutorial – Frills & Ruffles

Friday, April 16th, 2010

How has your week been? Hope it was a nice productive one. For me, I think the holiday is definitely over as it is getting very busy in the world of C&C. Wata kept waking me up all night last night, so I am really sleepy!

Today I would like to introduce you to 3 kinds of knitting frills: 1) simple gathered frills, 2) bell edging (2 ways) and 3) short-row frills. Frills / ruffles add such a nice feature to knitted garment. My new knitting pattern called Mermaid Bolero is an example how simple frills add extra gorgeous-ness. :)

This really pretty image was taken by Melissa from Melissa Corcoran Photography. I love this so much!

This really pretty image was taken by Melissa from Melissa Corcoran Photography. I love this so much!

Note: Arrows indicate the direction of the frills. For example (↑) means that the frills are knitted from bottom up while (↓) means from top down. (→) means that they are knitted side ways.

1) Simple Gathered Frills (↑)

In a nutshell: CO 3-4 times the amount of final sts you want. Once you reach the desired length of the frills, gather at the top (either k3tog if you multiplied by 3, or k2tog for 2 rows if you multiplied by 4).

Advantage: This is the easiest method of making frills. They are dense and effective.

Disadvantage: You have to CO so many sts which could be daunting.

Gathered frills. Although it involves lots of stitches to start off with, the frills are dense, cute and easy to do.

Gathered frills. Although it involves lots of stitches to start off with, the frills are dense, cute and easy to do.

2) Bell edging (either ↓ or ↑)

In a nutshell: 2 sts are either inc or dec for every repeat on alternate rows. It gives a very prominent frills due to the use of ribbing. Bell frills can be knitted either up or down-wards according to your need.

Advantage: Does not involve as many stitch number as the gathered frill technique. It also gives an ordered and prominent frill effect. The identical effect can be achieved by both up or down direction of knitting (see further).

Disadvantage: The frills are not as dense and random as the gathered frills.

2.1) Bell Edging (↑) bottom up

Multiple of 12 sts plus 3.

Row 1 (RS): p3, *k9, p3. Repeat from * until end.

Row2 (WS): k3, *p9, k3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 3: p3, *ssk, k5, k2tog, p3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 4: k3, *p7 k3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 5: p3, *ssk, k3, k2tog, p3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 6: k3, *p5, k3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 7: p3, *ssk, k1, k2tog, p3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 8: k3, *p3, k3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 9: p3, *sl2tog, k1, psso, p3. Repeat from * until end..

Row 10: k3, *p1, k3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 11: p3, *k1, p3. Repeat from * until end.

Row 12: As row 10.

Bell edging knitted from bottom up.

Bell edging knitted from bottom up.

2.2) Bell Edging (↓) top down

Multiple of 4 sts plus 3.

Row 1 (RS): *p3, k1. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, p3.

Row2 (WS): *k3, p1. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, k3.

Row 3 and 4: Repeat rows 1 and 2 once more.

Row 5: *p3, (k1, p1tbl, k1) into the next st. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, p3.

Row 6: *k3, p3. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, k3.

Row 7: *p3, yf, k3, yb. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, p3.

Row 8: *k3, p5. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, k3. When you work the yo (i.e. yb and yf) made in the previous row, make sure to twist these sts to prevent holes being made. The same applies to the subsequent rows.

Row 9: *p3, yf, k5, yb. Repeat from * the last 3 sts, p3.

Row 10: *k3, p7. Repeat from * until end.

Row 11: *p3, yf, k7, yb. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, p3.

Row 12: *k3, p9. Repeat from * until the last 3 sts, k3.

Row 13: BO.

Bell edging worked top down. Identical effect to the bell eding worked bottom up. Very useful indeed :D

Bell edging worked top down. Identical effect to the bell eding worked bottom up. Very useful indeed :D

3) Short-row Frills (→)

In a nutshell: This is basically a series of horizontal darts to make a spiral with garter stitch. Stitches are later picked from the shorter edge and knitted at right angle. This technique can also be used to add frills on right or left side of the piece with larger number of stitches.

Spirals become frills :D

Spirals become frills :D

Advantage: The length of frills depends on the number of sts casted on. So you can easily control how long / short your frills to be. It also gives a very prominent, ordered and dense frills.

Disadvantage: It is a very time-consuming process as garter stitches does not grow fast… I only recommend this technique when you are working on a smaller projects.

CO 10 sts.

Row 1: k8, wrap and turn. Row 2: k8.

Row 3: k7, wrap and turn. Row 4: k7.

Row 5: k6, wrap and turn. Row 6: k6.

Row 7: k5, wrap and turn. Row 8: k5.

Row 9: k4, wrap and turn. Row 10: k4.

Row 11: k3, wrap and turn. Row 12: k3.

Row 13: k2, wrap and turn. Row 14: k2.

Row 15 and 16: k10. Note: here, you have an option of picking up the wrap (see the video tutorial). With garter stitch, you don’t usually need to pick up the wrap but depending on the yarn, you may have holes where you have wrapped and turned.

Repeat these 16 rows until you have the desired length along the shorter edge. Then pick up the desired number of stitches to knit vertically (below).

Short row frills after picking up the stitches along the shorter edge to knit vertically.

Short row frills after picking up the stitches along the shorter edge to knit vertically.

Do try them out. You will love the effects for all frill types ;)

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Posted in Tutorials | 33 Comments »

Knitting Tutorials – Simple One-Strand Cast-Ons 1 (Loop & Twisted Loop)

Tuesday, February 9th, 2010

There are so many ways which you can cast-on, but generally you would only use 1-2 methods (I use crochet cast on or two-stranded cast on). But I wanted to introduce you to various ways of casting on because they all have their purpose. In the next two weeks, I would like to introduce you 4 versions of simple one-stranded cast-ons. This week, I will talk about 1) LOOP, 2) TWISTED LOOP, followed by  3) ALTERNATE LOOP and 4) DOUBLE TWIST LOOP cast-ons next week.

LOOP & TWISTED LOOP CAST ON

They are basic. But they are very useful for increasing sts (more than 2) which you would later pick up (e.g. neck edges, armholes etc). This is because of the understated edge that loop cast on gives. When you pick up sts made by loop methods, the seam would have less bulk and it is able to stretch more freely (c.f. cable cast on). Ideal for armhole, underarm and necklines etc.

1) LOOP CAST ON

♥ Use when you will be working on knit stitch on the cast on (you will see what I mean)

Step 1: Using your middle finger, press down the working yarn (green arrow).

Step 1: Using your middle finger, press down the working yarn (green arrow).

Step 2: A loop will be made between your first and middle fingers. Insert your needle into the loop from befind towards you.

Step 2: A loop will be made between your first and middle fingers. Insert your needle into the loop from behind towards you.

Step 3: Repease and pull down the working yarn (green arrow).

Step 3: Repease and pull down the working yarn (green arrow).

Use this loop method when you make knit stitch to start the row.

Use this loop method when you make knit stitch to start the row.

Increased stitches on the right side of the work by loop method.

Increased stitches on the right side of the work by loop method.

Check the direction of the loop compare to the twisted loop method (below). The working yarn (on the left) is tucked underneath.

Check the direction of the loop compare to the twisted loop method (below). The working yarn (on the left) is tucked underneath.

2) TWISTED LOOP CAST ON

♥ Use when you are working on purl stitch on the next row.

Step 1: Using your thumb, push down the working yarn (green arrow).

Step 1: Using your thumb, push down the working yarn (green arrow).

Step 2: Swing your thumnb towards you (green arrow). This will make the yarn loop around the thumb. Insert the needle through this loop from below (blue arrow).

Step 2: Swing your thumnb towards you (green arrow). This will make the yarn loop around the thumb. Insert the needle through this loop from below (blue arrow).

Looking from a different angle. The needle is already through the loop.

Looking from a different angle. The needle is already through the loop.

Step 4: Pull the working yarn (green arrow). Note the direction of the twist is different from the loop method.

Step 4: Pull the working yarn (green arrow). Note the direction of the twist is different from the loop method.

twisted loop 5

Note the direction of the loop compared to the standard loop cast on method.

I have made video tutorials for both loop cast on and twisted loop cast on.

Happy knitting! :D

P.S. If you like the tutorial, please re-tweet this post :D (thank you!)

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Posted in Tutorials | 10 Comments »

Knitting Technique Links – Magic Cast On

Thursday, January 7th, 2010

I am in love. I am in love with this special cast on technique called Magic Cast On. If you are a hard-core sock knitter, you would probably know about it.

Trying out this fab technique.

Trying out this fab technique.

On Friday, I will be releasing the first FREE knitting pattern of 2010 and it uses this technique. As there are lots of articles about it, I won’t do my own tutorial but I decided to link two sites on magic cast on and one for general knitting help which I personally think are good:

The original article by Judy Baker – super excellent and I HIGHLY recommend you to check it out. This is her blog. 3 words, LOVE LOVE LOVE!

YouTube video tutorial – I found this video very helpful.

For general knitting tutorials go to knittinghelp.com. I LOVE THIS SITE!!!

Short post but it’s worth it ;D

See you on Friday!

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Posted in Tutorials | 8 Comments »

Free Tutorial: Cup Sleeve

Sunday, June 1st, 2008
You can download the PDF file from HERE.

I used this cup sleeve last weekend at a cafe near Borough Market. It felt really lovely because the sleeve is soft (because I put a thick wadding in it) and became warm with the hot coffee. Someone also approached me and asked where I got it from so I told her I made it.

I hope you would enjoy the tutorials and have a great week!

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Posted in Free Patterns | 5 Comments »

How To Sew a Circular Bottom Neatly…….

Tuesday, May 13th, 2008

Round bottom is a nice feature not only for bag bottom but also for a cylindrical pouches and bags. Here is how!

Step 1. Make a card board template for a half circle. Make sure that you do this very neatly. Fold the fabric in half, secure it with pins. Draw the half circle with the fold as the diameter.

 

 

 

Step 2. Cut the half circle along the line you have just drawn. Open it flat. Divide the circle in 8 place makings. There will be eight markings equidistant to each other at the rim of the circule (see picture).

 

 

Step 3. The with of the fabric for the side part is determined by the circumference formula. Make sure that the diameter d, is the actual diameter of the template circle minus 2cm (1cm seam allowance). You would most likely to get a value with lots of decimal places, so to make your life simple round the number to the nearest whole or 1 decimal number. When you know the circumference add 2cm for the seams (1cm seam allowance again). You would then cut one sheet of fabric with the width calculated and height of your preference.

Step 4. Sew the seams and fold the piece in 8 equal parts and mark the position. You should now have 8 markings (including one sewn section) equidistant to each other.

 

 

 

Step 5. Match the markings on the circle and the side parts and secure it with pins or clips.

 

 

 

 

Step 6. Sew the edges around the circle. Make small notches on the side panel fabric to ensure the markings are kept matched as the fabric would feel stretched.

 

 

 

Step 7. Cut the seam off to 5mm.

 

 

 

 

 

Step 8. For pouches that are going to be used for the exterior part, once the work is turned right side iron the sewn edges in few sections. All you need to do is to gently place the edge of the steam iron for 1-2 seconds to tidy it.

 

 

 

Here is what I made earlier!

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Posted in Tutorials | 24 Comments »

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