Learn The Art Of Making A Dress Bigger By Adding Fabric

Key Takeaways

  • Evaluate Seams: Identify existing seams in the dress where additional fabric can be seamlessly integrated.
  • Invisible Extensions: Choose fabric matching the dress, ensuring a cohesive look; insert panels inconspicuously in side seams or along the back zipper.
  • Gussets for Movement: Add triangular fabric inserts, known as gussets, in areas requiring more movement, like underarms or the sides of the bodice.
  • Lace or Insets: Incorporate lace or decorative insets strategically for both functional and aesthetic enhancement.
  • Functional Buttons or Snaps: Create functional buttons or snaps along seams for easy adjustment and removal if needed.

Have you ever found a beautiful dress that you absolutely love, but it just doesn’t fit quite right? Don’t worry, you’re not alone. Many people face this dilemma, and if the dress is too small, making it bigger by adding fabric can be the perfect solution.

In this article, we will explore how to make a dress bigger by adding fabric, allowing you to enjoy wearing that stunning piece without any discomfort.

When it comes to altering a dress, various methods and steps are involved. The process of adding fabric can range from simple adjustments to more intricate techniques, depending on the dress’s style and your sewing skills.

By following the right steps and gathering the necessary tools, you can successfully make your dress bigger and achieve the perfect fit.

How To Make A Dress Bigger By Adding Fabric

Understanding The Basics

Before you begin the process of making a dress bigger by adding fabric, it’s essential to have some basic sewing skills and the right tools on hand.

  • First and foremost, you should be comfortable with using a sewing machine and a seam ripper. A sewing machine will make it easier to sew fabric panels and adjust seams, while a seam ripper helps in removing stitches when needed.
  • Accurate measurements play a vital role in successfully enlarging a dress. Always double-check your measurements to ensure they are precise before adding any fabric. You want to avoid ending up with a dress that’s too big or too small after the alteration.
  • When choosing fabric to add to your dress, consider the original fabric’s weight, pattern, and texture. Using a lighter or lighter fabric can result in an unbalanced or awkward appearance.
    You should also select a fabric that complements the original dress, whether it’s a matching color or a contrasting pattern.
  • To make a dress bigger, you can add fabric panels at the back, sides, or underarms, or you can adjust the dress seams to provide extra room in the bodice, waist, or hips. Stitching these additions neatly and securely is important to maintain the overall look and durability of the dress.

Can You Alter A Dress To Make It Bigger?

Yes, it is possible to alter a dress to make it bigger, but the extent to which you can do so depends on various factors, including the original design of the dress, the available fabric, and the sewing skills of the person doing the alterations. Follow the below given points to make a dress bigger:

  • Adding Fabric Inserts: One of the most common methods is to add extra fabric inserts to the dress. This can be done by sewing additional fabric panels or gussets into the side seams, back, or other areas of the dress where extra room is needed.
  • Letting Out Seams: If the dress has extra seam allowance, it may be possible to let out the seams to increase the overall size. However, this method has limitations, as there may need to be more seam allowance to make a significant difference.
  • Adding Panels or Godets: Depending on the style of the dress, you can add panels or godets (triangular or diamond-shaped fabric inserts) to the skirt portion to create more fullness and space.
  • Changing Necklines or Sleeves: If the dress has sleeves or a neckline that is too tight, you can alter these areas by either replacing them with larger pieces of fabric or changing the design to accommodate a larger size.
  • Moving Zippers or Closures: Sometimes, shifting the location of zippers or closures can provide extra room in the dress. For example, moving a back zipper to the side may allow for more width in the garment.
  • Replacing or Adding Elastic: If the dress has elastic elements, you can replace worn-out or restrictive elastic with a larger, more stretchy one. You can also add elastic to certain areas, like the waist, to increase the dress’s size.
  • Redesigning the Dress: In some cases, especially if the dress is too small and altering it significantly is not feasible, you may need to consider redesigning the dress entirely by using the existing fabric or adding new fabric.

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How To Make A Dress Bigger In The Bust, Waist, Hips and the Back?

Altering a dress to make it bigger in multiple areas, including the bust, waist, hips, and back, can be a complex and time-consuming task. It requires sewing skills and careful planning. Here are step-by-step instructions on how to make a dress bigger in all these areas:

Materials You’ll Need

Step-By-Step Instructions

  • Assess The Dress: Determine how much additional room you need in the bust, waist, hips, and back areas. Take accurate measurements to guide your alterations.
  • Find Matching Fabric: If you need to add fabric to the dress, select a fabric that matches the dress in color, texture, and weight as closely as possible.
  • Remove Stitching: Use a seam ripper to carefully remove the stitching in the areas you want to make bigger. This includes seams, darts, and any closures like zippers or buttons.
  • Cut Extra Fabric: If you’re adding fabric, cut pieces of fabric in the shapes of the areas you want to expand. You may need to create curved or tailored pieces to match the dress’s contours.
  • Pin Extra Fabric: Pin the additional fabric pieces to the dress, ensuring they align properly with the existing seams. For each area (bust, waist, hips, back), focus on one at a time. Make sure to distribute the extra fabric evenly to maintain the dress’s balance.
  • Sew The Extra Fabric: Use a sewing machine or hand-sew the additional fabric in place, following the existing seam lines. Make sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of your sewing to secure the fabric. Repeat this process for each area you’re altering.
  • Press Seams: Iron the seams flat to make them look neat and blend with the rest of the dress.
  • Reassemble: If you had to remove closures like zippers or buttons, reattach them carefully. Ensure they align properly and function as they should.
  • Try On And Adjust: Try on the dress to ensure the fit is comfortable and the altered areas look natural. Make any further adjustments as needed.
  • Finish Edges: If you added fabric, you may need to finish the edges to prevent fraying. This can be done with a zigzag stitch or by folding the edges over and sewing them down.
  • Final Press: Give the dress a final press to ensure it looks well-finished and removes any wrinkles.
  • Inspect And Tidy: Inspect the entire dress for any loose threads or uneven seams, and trim or tidy up as needed.

Taking Accurate Measurements

Measuring The Dress

Before you start any dress alteration, measuring the dress accurately is crucial. Use measuring tape to get the exact dimensions of your dress. Lay the dress flat on a clean and even surface.


Measure the bust area, waist, hips, and length, and any other areas where you plan to add fabric, such as a side slit. Note down the measurements, as you’ll need them while adding the fabric panels.

Measuring Your Body

Now that you have the dress’s measurements, it’s time to measure your own body to ensure the alterations will fit you perfectly.
Using a measuring tape, measure your bust, waist, and hips. While taking the measurements, ensure the tape is snug but not too tight, and maintain a neutral posture.

For a more comfortable fit, add an extra inch or two for ease when comparing your body measurements to the dress, depending on your desired degree of comfort.

With these accurate measurements in hand, you can confidently proceed with the dress alteration, knowing it will fit you just right.

How To Make A Dress Bigger By Adding Fabric

Selecting The Right Fabric

When making a dress bigger by adding fabric, it’s crucial to select the right fabric to ensure a seamless result. Considering the material of the dress, as well as the pattern and color, will help you achieve a perfect match.

  • To begin with, closely examine the material of the dress. Determine whether the fabric is stretchy, lightweight, or heavy.
    This information is important because it will help you choose a matching fabric with similar properties. A mismatch in the material could lead to an uneven fit and discomfort when wearing the dress.
  • When searching for matching fabric, aim to find one as close in color and pattern to the original dress as possible. This will allow the added fabric panels to blend seamlessly with the rest of the dress, giving a professional and polished result.
    Opt for a complementary color or pattern that blends well with the dress if an exact match is unavailable.
  • After selecting the appropriate fabric type, decide on the method of adding fabric to the dress. One option is to add fabric panels, which can be inserted on the sides, back, or underarms, depending on the desired fit.
    Fabric panels are versatile and provide extra breathing room in multiple areas of the dress.
  • Another option is to add a fabric panel specifically at the back of the dress, which can help increase the overall width. This method involves carefully removing the zipper or back seam before attaching the new fabric.
    This approach is particularly helpful if you need to provide more room in the bodice or waist area.

Marking And Cutting The Fabric

Marking The Fabric

Before you start, ensure that you have all the necessary tools and materials required for the task. To mark the fabric, you should use chalk or a fabric marker for accurate and visible lines.

Place the fabric on a flat surface and smoothly iron it to eliminate any wrinkles or creases. Carefully measure the area where you want to add fabric and mark the dimensions using the chalk or fabric marker.


Don’t forget to include seam allowance to accommodate the stitches that will join the new fabric piece to the dress.

Cutting The Fabric

Once you have marked the fabric accurately with the dimensions and seam allowance, it is time to cut the fabric. Using a pair of sharp fabric scissors, carefully cut along the marked lines, ensuring that you maintain a steady hand to achieve a clean and precise cut.

It’s essential to follow the marked lines accurately to avoid any errors or uneven edges in the new fabric piece. After cutting the fabric, double-check the dimensions to ensure they match the intended area on the dress where you plan to add the fabric.

Finally, prepare the fabric for attachment by folding and pressing the seam allowance, and you’re ready to sew the new fabric piece onto the dress.

Ripping The Existing Seams

Before you start adding fabric to make your dress bigger, you’ll need to rip out the existing seams. This process involves using a seam ripper, which is an essential tool for any sewing project.

  • First, locate the side seams of the dress. Side seams are usually found running vertically down each side of the dress. Identify the stitches holding the fabric together and carefully insert the seam ripper’s pointed end under a stitch. Gently push the seam ripper forward to cut the stitch, being cautious not to damage the fabric.
  • Continue working your way along the side seam, removing stitches as you go. As you gain more confidence and experience with the seam ripper, you’ll be able to remove stitches more quickly and efficiently.
    Make sure you’re taking your time to avoid accidentally tearing the fabric.
  • If the dress has darts, be prepared to rip out the seams on those as well. Darts are usually found around the bust, waist, and hips to provide a tailored fit.
    These may also need to be adjusted to accommodate the added fabric. Use the same technique with the seam ripper as you did for the side seams to remove the darts’ stitches carefully.

Making The Dress Bigger

If you have a dress that no longer fits comfortably and you want to make it bigger, one solution is to add fabric. Here is a simple guide to help you achieve this.Follow the simple steps given below to help you achieve this:

  • First, gather the materials and tools needed for the task, such as a seam ripper, a matching or complementary fabric, scissors, thread, pins, and a measuring tape.
    Once you have all your supplies, start by letting out the seams of the dress. Carefully use the seam ripper to unstitch the side seams, being cautious not to damage the fabric.
  • Next, measure the added width you need on each side of the dress, and cut strips of fabric accordingly.
    To ensure an even fit, ensure each strip of fabric is the same width, but adjust the length according to the various parts being altered. For instance, you may need a longer bodice strip than the skirt portion.
  • Now, pin the fabric strips to the open seams of the dress, aligning them evenly and making sure to maintain the dress’s original shape. Take time to pin the fabric in place, ensuring it lays flat and smooth along the entire seam length.
  • Once the fabric is pinned, sew the strips of fabric to the dress using a sewing machine or by hand. Keep your stitches clean and consistent, so the alteration looks seamless.
    After sewing, remove any excess fabric by trimming the seam allowances and use an iron to press the seams open for a professional finish.
  • Finally, try on the dress to assess the fit and ensure the added fabric provides enough extra space. Make any final adjustments by letting out or taking in the seams as necessary.

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Adding A Fabric Panel

Adding a fabric panel is a great solution when you need to make your dress bigger. To begin, you will want to gather the necessary tools such as fabric scissors, matching thread, pins, and a sewing machine.

It’s essential to choose a fabric panel that closely matches the color and texture of your dress to maintain a seamless appearance.

  • First, carefully seam rip the back or side seams of your dress where you plan to insert the fabric panel. Make sure to leave enough seam allowance on each side to sew back together with the new fabric panel.
    Measure the opened seam and cut a fabric panel with the same length, adding seam allowances on both edges.
  • Pin the fabric panel to the dress, aligning it with the opened seam and ensuring it lies flat. Check for any puckering or pulling, and adjust the pins to ensure a smooth fit.
    Once you’re satisfied with the pinned panel, sew it in place using a matching thread and a seam allowance that matches the original seam allowance on your dress.
  • Use a blind hem stitch or a topstitch to attach the panel for a clean and professional finish. This will help blend the panel with the rest of the dress, making it less noticeable.
    You may also press the seam open, so the new fabric panel lies flat and integrates better with the original dress material.
  • Remember to work slowly and carefully throughout the process. Adding a fabric panel can be challenging, especially if you have little experience in sewing alterations.
    But with patience and attention to detail, you can successfully make your dress bigger and ensure a comfortable fit.
How To Make A Dress Bigger By Adding Fabric

Altering The Zipper

When you need to make a dress bigger, one approach is to alter the zipper. This process is simple and can be done in a few basic steps.

  • First, decide if you want to add a zipper or modify the existing one. To add a zipper, choose a location for the new zipper, such as a side seam, to provide additional room. A side zipper is often easier to install, allowing more discreet adjustments.
  • To modify the existing zipper, start by removing it carefully using a seam ripper. Once the zipper is removed, you can add additional fabric to the open area.
    Choose a fabric that matches or complements the dress material. Measure the width and length of the space and cut the fabric to size.
  • Next, stitch the cut fabric along the edges of the open area. If you’re using a sewing machine, be sure to use a zipper foot for a smoother finish. After attaching the fabric, reposition the zipper to align with the new seam, allowing extra room in the dress.
  • Install the zipper by sewing it along the new seam, ensuring the zipper teeth are appropriately spaced. Close any remaining gaps along the new seam, ensuring the fabric is solidly attached.
  • By altering the zipper this way, you can create more room in the dress for a comfortable fit. With a confident and knowledgeable approach, you can successfully make your dress bigger by adding fabric where needed.

Additional Techniques

As a seamstress, you have various techniques at your disposal to make a dress bigger by adding fabric. One of the effective methods is using gussets, which are triangular or diamond-shaped pieces of fabric.

Gussets can be added to the side seams or under the armholes to increase the dress’s bust, waist, or hip area. 

  • Enclosed seams can be used when adding fabric to maintain a clean and professional finish on the inside of the garment. Place the fabric’s right sides together and sew along the seam allowance to do this.
    Press the seam open, fold the edges of the seam, and stitch close to the edge to encase the raw edge. Overlocked seams can also be used for a durable finish, especially in stretchy fabrics.
  • Bias strips are another useful addition when needing more room in a dress. Apply these flexible strips of fabric as binding to finish raw edges or add decorative loops to closures, providing extra space on the back or side openings.
    Sew the bias strip along the edge and fold it over to the other side, enclosing the seam.
  • In some cases, a modesty panel can be added to the back or side of a dress to provide extra coverage and room. This rectangular piece of fabric can be attached to the dress at one side with the other edge free, or both sides can be attached in the case of a zipper or lace-up closure.
  • When making alterations to a dress, it is important to maintain its overall design and aesthetics. Incorporate matching or complementary fabric when adding gussets, bias strips, or modesty panels. This ensures a seamless and cohesive look to your dress.

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Specific Alterations For Different Dress Types

When making a dress bigger, it’s important to consider the type of dress you’re working with. Different alterations may be more suitable depending on whether you have a wedding dress, formal dress, informal dress, or a dress with a lace-up corset back.

  • For wedding dresses, it’s crucial to maintain the original design and shape of the gown. Adding a fabric panel to the side or back can provide extra room without affecting the dress’s overall look.
    Be sure to choose a matching fabric and work carefully to ensure a seamless appearance.
  • Informal dresses often allow for more flexibility when it comes to alterations. It might be possible to reposition the waistline seam or adjust the side seams to create more space.
    You could also create a flattering effect by adding ruching or extra panels to the sides or back of the dress. Remember to match the style and fabric of the dress to maintain its casual feel.
  • For formal dresses, the key is subtlety. You’ll want to alter the dress in a way that doesn’t draw attention to the modifications.
    Consider adding a gusset to the side seams, which can expand the bust, waist, and hips without changing the neckline or waistline. A diamond gusset is a great option, starting under the armpit and ending at the waist seam.
  • If your dress has a lace-up corset back, you already have some built-in adjustability. However, you may need to add extra fabric if the corset doesn’t provide enough room.
    In this case, a corset panel can be inserted between the lacing to increase the width of the back. Choose a fabric that matches the existing dress and carefully attach the panel to ensure a seamless appearance.

Frequently Asked Questions

How To Add Side Panels To A Dress For Enlargement?

To add side panels to a dress, first, remove the original side seams with a seam ripper. Measure the width you’d like to add, then cut fabric panels of the desired width and height. Sew these panels to the opened side seams, ensuring the fabric patterns match. Press the new seams for a clean finish.

What Are The Ways To Make A Dress Bigger At The Zipper?

If you need to make a dress bigger at the zipper, you can replace the existing zipper with a longer one and create a fabric panel along the zipper line. You can also add fabric gussets on both sides of the zipper to provide more room for the back without removing the zipper completely.

How To Expand A Dress At The Waist With Fabric?

Expanding a dress at the waist can be done by adding a fabric panel to the back or side of the dress. Measure the width you need to add and cut a fabric panel accordingly.

Open the dress seams where the panel will be added, and sew the panel into the opened seam, blending the panel with the original dress fabric.

How To Make A Dress Bigger Without Sewing Techniques?

To make a dress bigger without sewing, you can use fabric adhesive or fabric tape to attach expanders, such as panels, elastic, or gussets, to the dress. However, these methods might not be as durable or professional-looking as sewing.

How To Increase Dress Bust Size With Fabric Additions?

To increase the bust size of a dress, add a diamond gusset to the side seams (under the armpits) or use fabric panels in the front or back of the dress.

When choosing the best method for your dress, make sure to consider the neckline, waistline, and sleeves, as these can affect the look and comfort of the finished garment.

How To Add Fabric To The Hips Area For A Roomier Dress?

If you need more room in the hips area, you can add fabric panels on the side seams just below the waistline, extending to the hem. Ensure that these panels match the existing fabric and pattern of the dress.

Sew the panels into the opened side seams, pressing the new seams for a smooth and professional finish.

Jenny Williams
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